Patek Philippe patented and released the first annual calendar only 23 years ago, in 1996. Placed in the middle ground between the common date and the potent – and pricey – perpetual calendar, the annual calendar seemed to promise new terrain for enthusiasts, one that would provide desired horological “cred” without breaking the bank. Since its introduction into the Patek portfolio, the annual calendar has been released in dozens of iterations but its most recent update, announced at Baselworld 2018, is perhaps its most appealing appearance so far. The 5205G-013 takes the recognizable dial layout of the 5205 series, with the day, date and month spread across apertures in the upper half of the dial, and adds a vibrant gradient blue dial to complement the white-gold case dressing with a slightly concave bezel and pierced strap lugs. In addition to the annual calendar functionality, there’s a moon-phase and 24-hour indicator set up in the 6 o’clock subdial. All of this is powered by the automatic Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206 with a 45-hour power reserve. Price $47,970.