PATEK PHILIPPE

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Patek Philippe pa­tented and re­leased the first an­nual cal­en­dar only 23 years ago, in 1996. Placed in the mid­dle ground be­tween the com­mon date and the po­tent – and pricey – per­pet­ual cal­en­dar, the an­nual cal­en­dar seemed to prom­ise new ter­rain for en­thu­si­asts, one that would pro­vide de­sired horo­log­i­cal “cred” with­out break­ing the bank. Since its in­tro­duc­tion into the Patek port­fo­lio, the an­nual cal­en­dar has been re­leased in dozens of it­er­a­tions but its most re­cent up­date, an­nounced at Basel­world 2018, is per­haps its most ap­peal­ing ap­pear­ance so far. The 5205G-013 takes the rec­og­niz­able dial lay­out of the 5205 se­ries, with the day, date and month spread across aper­tures in the up­per half of the dial, and adds a vi­brant gra­di­ent blue dial to com­ple­ment the white-gold case dress­ing with a slightly con­cave bezel and pierced strap lugs. In ad­di­tion to the an­nual cal­en­dar func­tion­al­ity, there’s a moon-phase and 24-hour in­di­ca­tor set up in the 6 o’clock sub­dial. All of this is pow­ered by the au­to­matic Cal­iber 324 S QA LU 24H/206 with a 45-hour power re­serve. Price $47,970.

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