THE WATCHES

WatchTime - - Watchtime New York Highlights -

As Watchtime New York has grown, many brands have seized the week­end as an op­por­tu­nity to de­but new watch mod­els and col­lec­tions to the U.S. mar­ket for the first time. is year, the show served as a plat­form for a num­ber of brands to ei­ther re­lease new mod­els just in time for the show or use the show as the first op­por­tu­nity for Amer­i­can-based col­lec­tors to see the watches on their own turf.

Mod­els mak­ing their U.S. mar­ket de­but in­cluded: the Akrivia Chronométre Con­tem­po­rain, which joined founder Rex­hep Rex­hepi in an in­au­gu­ral visit to the United States; the square-shaped Lang & Heyne Ge­org; Ray­mond Weil de­buted a new ver­sion of the Cal­i­bre RW1212 Skele­ton as part of its Free­lancer Col­lec­tion; Grand Seiko un­veiled its first se­ries of lim­ited edi­tions for the U.S. mar­ket with three new time­pieces; Amer­i­can watch brand RGM de­buted four new mod­els that in­cluded a va­ri­ety of arts and hand­crafts with di­als con­structed us­ing wood mar­quetry, hand paint­ing and Amer­i­can-made cloi­sonné enamel; and Britain's Bre­mont launched its eighth his­tor­i­cal, lim­it­ededi­tion time­piece, the Bre­mont Su­per­sonic, which com­mem­o­rates the 50th an­niver­sary of

Cza­pek & Cie. harks back to the ori­gins of one of the watch in­dus­try’s most pres­ti­gious names, which was founded by two Pol­ish émi­grés who sought refuge in Switzer­land af­ter Poland’s No­vem­ber up­ris­ing. The Patek, Cza­pek & Cie. watch brand was born when An­toine Patek and François Cza­pek joined forces in Geneva. The part­ner­ship lasted six years, af­ter which the two gentle­men parted ways, both con­tin­u­ing in the watch busi­ness. But while one of them grew into what is to­day one of the most cov­eted names in watch­mak­ing, the other, af­ter a pe­riod of great glory, mys­te­ri­ously van­ished. On 10th No­vem­ber 2015 the Cza­pek name and brand were re­vived in a new com­pany in true 2.0 style, en­cour­ag­ing watch afi­ciona­dos to in­vest di­rectly in the brand through a one-ofa-kind crowd­fund­ing eq­uity fi­nanc­ing. The ex­cep­tional launch col­lec­tion, called Quai des Bergues, stands out with a unique de­sign fea­tur­ing two sub-di­als in the bot­tom half of the dial, re­call­ing the orig­i­nal Cza­pek & Cie. watch No. 3430 from 1850. It is fit­ted with a 7-day pro­pri­etary move­ment de­vel­oped in part­ner­ship with Chron­ode (Jean-françois Mo­jon). The lead­ing model in the col­lec­tion, the No. 33bis, won the Pub­lic Prize in the Grand Prix de l’hor­logerie in Geneva (GPHG) in No­vem­ber 2016, only one year af­ter the re­launch of the brand. The com­pany’s se­cond col­lec­tion, Place Vendome, a lim­ited edi­tion sus­pended tour­bil­lon with a se­cond time-zone also de­vel­oped with Chron­ode, was launched one year later in 2017, while 2018 wel­comed Cza­pek’s third col­lec­tion. The Faubourg de Cracovie line fea­tures a con­tem­po­rary in­te­grated colum-wheel chrono­graph with ver­ti­cal clutch, man­u­fac­tured by Vaucher in a be­spoke ver­sion ex­clu­sive to Cza­pek. Both the Place Vendome Tour­bil­lon Suspendu and the Faubourg de Cracovie ‘L’heure Bleue’ have been pre-se­lected for the GPHG in 2017 and 2018 – a big achieve­ment for a young and in­de­pen­dent Swiss made watch brand, “for watch lovers, by watch lovers”. To­day, Cza­pek is avail­able in the US at Oster Jewel­ers, in Den­ver (Oster­jew­el­ers.com).

e Con­corde. MB&F also pro­vided col­lec­tors at­tend­ing the show an ex­clu­sive sneak peek of an LM2 with a pur­ple dial that was re­leased two weeks af­ter be­ing first seen at Watchtime New York 2018.

Fre­quently de­scribed as “e Os­cars of Watch­mak­ing,” the Grand Prix d’hor­logerie de Genève (GPHG) is the most cov­eted prize in the world of horol­ogy and takes place two weeks af­ter Watchtime New York. How­ever, dur­ing the show, a num­ber of the se­lected brands were in at­ten­dance with their nom­i­nated watches on dis­play. Bovet, which won the most im­por­tant prize of the year, the Aigu­ille d’or, for the Réc­i­tal 22 Grand Réc­i­tal, had the win­ning model on hand for col­lec­tors to view and try on. Rex­hep Rex­hepi and Akrivia had the Chronometré Con­tem­po­rain, which took home the Men’s Watch award, on dis­play. De Bethune, which won the Chronom­e­try award for the DB28 Starry Var­ius, had the watch avail­able to col­lec­tors. Vacheron Con­stantin, which won the Re­vival Prize for the His­toriques Triple Cal­en­dar, also had the watch on dis­play. Other brands that were nom­i­nated and at­tended Watchtime New York in­cluded: MB&F, Kari Vouti­lainen, Cza­pek & Cie., Mont­blanc and Zenith. Greubel Forsey won the Me­chan­i­cal Ex­cep­tion prize for the Grande Son­nerie, but the model was not on dis­play at Watchtime New York 2018.

FAUBOURG DE CRACOVIE “L’HEURE BLEUE” PRE-SE­LECTED AT GPHG 2018

QUAI DES BERGUES NO.33BIS WIN­NER OF THE PUB­LIC PRIZE AT GPHG 2016

PLACE VENDOME TOUR­BIL­LON SUSPENDU “ICI ET AILLEURS” PRE-SE­LECTED AT GPHG 2017

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.