Native son Bryan Voltaggio wears many toques— exec chef and co- owner of six restaurants, Beard award nominee and Top Chef finalist, author ( Volt. Ink with brother Michael), father of three and advocate for ending child hunger. His new enterprise is upscale Italian Aggio (page 28), its kitchen overseen by Dan Izzo, wines by Keith Goldston.
This second Aggio (D.C. has the first) offers rare options—ambience that allows for conversation and graceful service that delivers each elegant course to guests in unison. As Sinatra and pals softly croon, the glam evening gets underway with cocktails, some named in honor of that Mad Men- cool Rat Pack.
Highlights of a recent meal (á la carte or as six- course tasting $95, wine pairing $65): beets with tonnato sauce and pine nuts, cuttlefish Bolognese with squid ink pasta, lamb ragu with pecorino, halibut with pickled caulifower, branzino with cashew purée, New York strip with bone marrow custard, dazzling desserts like a layer cake of olive oil, Sicilian pistachio cream, sorbet and meringues. Expect surprises: even the spaghetti and meatballs take on Voltaggio sophistication.— JLC
Duff Goldman treat