A-List Aggio

Where Baltimore - - Where Now -

Na­tive son Bryan Volt­ag­gio wears many toques— exec chef and co- owner of six restau­rants, Beard award nom­i­nee and Top Chef fi­nal­ist, au­thor ( Volt. Ink with brother Michael), fa­ther of three and ad­vo­cate for end­ing child hunger. His new en­ter­prise is up­scale Ital­ian Aggio (page 28), its kitchen over­seen by Dan Izzo, wines by Keith Gold­ston.

This sec­ond Aggio (D.C. has the first) of­fers rare op­tions—am­bi­ence that al­lows for con­ver­sa­tion and grace­ful ser­vice that de­liv­ers each el­e­gant course to guests in uni­son. As Si­na­tra and pals softly croon, the glam evening gets un­der­way with cock­tails, some named in honor of that Mad Men- cool Rat Pack.

High­lights of a re­cent meal (á la carte or as six- course tast­ing $95, wine pair­ing $65): beets with ton­nato sauce and pine nuts, cut­tle­fish Bolog­nese with squid ink pasta, lamb ragu with pecorino, hal­ibut with pick­led cauli­fower, branzino with cashew purée, New York strip with bone mar­row cus­tard, daz­zling desserts like a layer cake of olive oil, Si­cil­ian pis­ta­chio cream, sor­bet and meringues. Ex­pect sur­prises: even the spaghetti and meat­balls take on Volt­ag­gio so­phis­ti­ca­tion.— JLC

Duff Gold­man treat

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.