THE BOR­OUGHS

Where New York - - Food -

ELIAS COR­NER

Greek. This no-frills, no-menus, cash- only vet­eran of As­to­ria’s long-tenured Greek com­mu­nity of­fers fresh fish in con­ven­tional, homey digs or on an out­door pa­tio, and fin­ishes all meals with free house­made dessert. 24- 02 31st St., at 24th Ave., As­to­ria, Queens, 718.932.1510.

ENOTECA MARIA

Ital­ian. A daily ro­ta­tion of in­ter­na­tional fe­male chefs, the “Non­nas,” en­sure a daily-ro­tat­ing house­made menu of va­ri­ety and au­then­tic­ity, at this cash- only, renowned NYC des­ti­na­tion with a lengthy global wine list rang­ing most price points. L & D ( Th-Su). 27 Hy­att St., at Stuyvesant Pl., St. Ge­orge, Staten Is­land, 718.447.2777.

EVELINA

Con­tem­po­rary Ital­ian. In­ven­tive plates—blackink ac­querello risotto with oc­to­pus, sof­fritto, le­mon; grass-fed steak tartare with bur­rata, crushed truf­fle, pane carasau—in a dimly lit, brick­walled space with am­ple bar seat­ing. D (nightly), Brunch (Sa & Su). 211 DeKalb Ave., at Adel­phi St., Fort Greene, Brook­lyn, 929.298.0209.

HOME­TOWN BAR- B- QUE

Bar­be­cue. Con­sis­tently ranked by top ’cue con­nois­seurs as the best BBQ in Brook­lyn, this Red Hook sta­ple has been serv­ing up fin­ger-lickin’ ribs, lamb belly, brisket and house­made Ital­ian sausage since 2013. L & D ( Tu-Su). 454 Van Brunt St., btw Reed & Beard sts., Red Hook, Brook­lyn, 347.294.4644.

JOHNNY’S REEF

Seafood. This cash- only, counter-ser­vice spot over­look­ing Long Is­land Sound at the tip of City Is­land has been serv­ing deep-fried freshly caught seafood since 1950. L & D (daily). 2 City Is­land Ave., at Belden St., Bronx, 718.855.2086.

LE FAN­FARE

Con­tem­po­rary Ital­ian. Mod­est fare in an invit­ing, retro set­ting on the Brook­lyn side of the Pu­laski Bridge, with com­mu­nal wooden ta­bles and live jazz on week­end nights. D (nightly), Brunch (Sa & Su). 1103 Man­hat­tan Ave., btw Dupont & Clay sts., Green­point, Brook­lyn. 347.987.4244.

PEK­ING BBQ

Chinese-Pe­ru­vian. Lo­cally cov­eted ro­tis­serie chicken, pork fried rice, BBQ ribs and a se­cret-recipe house­made green sauce are the call­ing cards at this long-tenured Queens vet, which was opened al­most 50 years ago by a Chinese fam­ily who moved to Peru to learn the in­traci­cies of Pe­ru­vian poul­try prepa­ra­tion. L & D (daily). 58-11 Wood­side Ave., btw 58th & 59th sts., Sun­ny­side, Queens, 718.672.1414.

SALT + CHAR­COAL

Steak House. The spe­cialty at this trendy, cre­ative Ja­panese chop­house is fil­let mignon topped with fresh uni, ikura and scal­lion, served on a bed of steamed wa­ter­cress with umami kombu sauce. L (MF), D (nightly), Brunch (Sa & Su). 171 Grand St., at Bed­ford Ave., Wil­liams­burg, Brook­lyn, 718.782.2087.

UGLY BABY

Thai. In a cozy room with yel­low walls and wooden barstool seat­ing, a com­pact menu of spe­cial­ties is cat­e­go­rized by re­gions of Thai­land and fea­tures soups and spicy cur­ries. D (nightly), Brunch (Sa & Su). 407 Smith St., btw 4th & 5th sts., Car­roll Gar­dens, Brook­lyn, 347.689.3075.

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