Greek. This no-frills, no-menus, cash- only veteran of Astoria’s long-tenured Greek community offers fresh fish in conventional, homey digs or on an outdoor patio, and finishes all meals with free housemade dessert. 24- 02 31st St., at 24th Ave., Astoria, Queens, 718.932.1510.
Italian. A daily rotation of international female chefs, the “Nonnas,” ensure a daily-rotating housemade menu of variety and authenticity, at this cash- only, renowned NYC destination with a lengthy global wine list ranging most price points. L & D ( Th-Su). 27 Hyatt St., at Stuyvesant Pl., St. George, Staten Island, 718.447.2777.
Contemporary Italian. Inventive plates—blackink acquerello risotto with octopus, soffritto, lemon; grass-fed steak tartare with burrata, crushed truffle, pane carasau—in a dimly lit, brickwalled space with ample bar seating. D (nightly), Brunch (Sa & Su). 211 DeKalb Ave., at Adelphi St., Fort Greene, Brooklyn, 929.298.0209.
HOMETOWN BAR- B- QUE
Barbecue. Consistently ranked by top ’cue connoisseurs as the best BBQ in Brooklyn, this Red Hook staple has been serving up finger-lickin’ ribs, lamb belly, brisket and housemade Italian sausage since 2013. L & D ( Tu-Su). 454 Van Brunt St., btw Reed & Beard sts., Red Hook, Brooklyn, 347.294.4644.
Seafood. This cash- only, counter-service spot overlooking Long Island Sound at the tip of City Island has been serving deep-fried freshly caught seafood since 1950. L & D (daily). 2 City Island Ave., at Belden St., Bronx, 718.855.2086.
Contemporary Italian. Modest fare in an inviting, retro setting on the Brooklyn side of the Pulaski Bridge, with communal wooden tables and live jazz on weekend nights. D (nightly), Brunch (Sa & Su). 1103 Manhattan Ave., btw Dupont & Clay sts., Greenpoint, Brooklyn. 347.987.4244.
Chinese-Peruvian. Locally coveted rotisserie chicken, pork fried rice, BBQ ribs and a secret-recipe housemade green sauce are the calling cards at this long-tenured Queens vet, which was opened almost 50 years ago by a Chinese family who moved to Peru to learn the intracicies of Peruvian poultry preparation. L & D (daily). 58-11 Woodside Ave., btw 58th & 59th sts., Sunnyside, Queens, 718.672.1414.
SALT + CHARCOAL
Steak House. The specialty at this trendy, creative Japanese chophouse is fillet mignon topped with fresh uni, ikura and scallion, served on a bed of steamed watercress with umami kombu sauce. L (MF), D (nightly), Brunch (Sa & Su). 171 Grand St., at Bedford Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 718.782.2087.
Thai. In a cozy room with yellow walls and wooden barstool seating, a compact menu of specialties is categorized by regions of Thailand and features soups and spicy curries. D (nightly), Brunch (Sa & Su). 407 Smith St., btw 4th & 5th sts., Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, 347.689.3075.