Portable Router Table

Equipped with an affordable trim router, this totable table means business.

Design Editor John Olson wasn’t thinking outside the box when he ideated this results-driven router table. Instead, he was laser-focused on what he could fit inside the box. We’re pretty sure the actionable synergies are shifting paradigms here, too, but we don’t know what that means, so we’ll just sell the sizzle: The 1"-thick tabletop provides a best-in-class flat surface; fence-mounted dust collection minimizes the mess; and it all self-stows in a compact package. Win-win-win.

We equipped it with a Porter-Cable PCE6435—the top tool in our trim router shop test (issue 268, July 2020)—which measures 3½" in diameter at the base (minus the subbase) and 7½" tall without the collar. To accept a larger router, adjust the part sizes and hole in the bottom tabletop to fit that router and allow the top to open and close.

Bring innovation to the table

Baltic birch plywood comes in metric thicknesses close to, but less than, ½" and ¾". Measure assemblies as you build them, and adjust part dimensions to accommodate the slight size differences.

1 Cut the case parts A–K to size and label each with its part letter [Materials List]. Jigsaw notches in the case bottom (A) to suit the actual thickness of the ¾" plywood [Drawing 1]. Dry-fit the sides (B), front, and back (C). Drill countersunk pilot holes, then glue and clamp the case [Exploded View, Photo A].

2 Fine-tune the corner blocks (D, E) to fit the notches in the bottom (A) [Exploded View]. Glue and screw one small block to each large block, and then glue the block assemblies to the case [Photo B].

3 Glue the long legs (F) to the short legs (G) flush at the sides and one end [Exploded View]. After the glue dries, fit the legs (F/G) in the case openings, and cut the rails (H) to fit between them. Laminate the rails into two 11⁄2"-thick rail assemblies, flush all around. Glue the rails to the legs [Photo C]. After the glue dries, reinforce the joint with screws.

Build a top and circle back

1 Notch the shroud sides (I) [Drawing 2]. Glue and clamp the sides to the shroud front and back (J) [Exploded View].

2 Trace the shroud opening on the bottom (A) [Drawing 1, Photo D] and cut the hole [Photo E]. Square the corners with a chisel and sand the edges smooth. Glue and screw the shroud to the case.

3 Drill the holes in the tops (K) [Drawing 3]. Laminate the tops with the ends and edges flush.

4 Using a dado clean-out router bit, gradually deepen the 3½" hole until the remaining thickness of the upper top matches the thickness of your router subbase [Photo F].

5 Build a template [Fast-track the T-track] and use it with a dado clean-out bit to rout the stopped dadoes in the upper top [Drawing 3, Photo G]. Cut T-track [Sources] to length with two screw holes in each piece and set the tracks aside.

A fence for the cutting edge

1 Cut the fence parts L–O to size. Notch the base (L) and backer (M) [Drawing 4]. Glue the backer (M) between the base and cap (N) [Drawing 5, Photo H].

2 Drill countersunk pilot holes into both fence inserts (O) and screw them to the fence backer (M) [Exploded View].

3 Miter-cut the braces (P) from a ½×1¾×12" plywood strip. Glue and clamp the braces to the fence [Drawing 5].

4 Bevel-cut the dust hood (Q) and drill a centered hole sized to fit the hose of your shop-vacuum [Drawings 5 and 5a]. Glue and clamp the hood to the fence assembly. 5 Center the fence assembly on the top (K) and transfer the edges of the T-track dadoes to the fence bottom (L). Drill the bottom to accept the T-bolts [Drawing 4].

Now leverage the end process

1 Apply finish to the case, legs, top, and fence. (We sprayed three coats of rattlecan lacquer, sanding lightly between coats.)

2 Screw the T-tracks to the top (K). Then install the top with a continuous hinge cut to length [Photo I]. Install the latches and handle on the front of the case.

3 Cut and apply weatherstrip to the top edges of the shroud (I/J).

4 To orient the router in the table, mark the router’s front on its subbase and remove it from the router. Place the subbase in the recess in the top (K) with the mark against the wood and facing the latches. Transfer the mounting holes to the top. Drill countersunk mounting holes and screw the router in place [Photo J].

5 To set up your new router table, slide the legs in place on the table and clamp at least one leg to a solid worksurface [opening photo]. Mount the fence using T-bolts and knobs [Sources] and attach the vacuum hose.

6 To make a cut, install a bit and adjust the bit height as needed. Lock the top in place and you’re ready to rout.

Router base Shroud Legs Leave the router base attached to the top and pack the router, fence, and accessories around the shroud. Tuck the legs in, then latch the case for storage and transport’.

EXPLODED VIEW Note: A router with a top-mounted power switch will be easier to operate while mounted in the table. ECGDFBAHOJKIFEJICFDHGKFHBGCASE BOTTOM 71/16" 201/8" Thickness of ¾" plywood 71/16" A1¾" 13" A Glue and clamp the sides (B) to the bottom (A), then glue and screw the front and back (C) to the sides. Note: Cut the rails (H) overlength. Note: Drill ⅛" countersunk pilot holes for #8 screws in Baltic birch plywood. 1⁄4" #6 x 3/8" F.H. screw T-track 5½" long The fence adjusts quickly using recessed T-tracks. 14½" 215/8" Foam weather strip Router extends through opening during use. Continuous hinge allows top to lift up for bit changes. Catch 3½" A 5½" 215/8" 13" 3¾" pull #8 x 1¼" F.H. screw The legs and fence detach and store inside the case. B C 10" #8 x 2½" F.H. screw 4½" 10" 1½"

B Tip! If your clamps can’t reach deep enough to press the blocks (D, E) against the case, screw through the case sides (B), front, and back (C) to secure the blocks. Laminate: To glue workpieces face-toface. A 3½" holesaw with an arbor costs less than $25, and the arbor can be used with a variety of holesaws. A C B The corner blocks should align with the edges of the notches in the bottom (A), and a leg (F) should slide in for a snug fit. Tip! C J I A D Center the shroud on the bottom (A) with the shroud sides edge of the bottom. Then trace around the inside. B (I) flush with the front SHROUD SIDE CASE TOP F C G I H K H B C Gluing the rails (H/H) to the legs (F/G) with the legs inserted into the case prevents the leg assembly from twisting during the glue-up. 5½" C ¾" 3¼" Rout slots in upper only. See the instructions. 3¼" 1013/16" 7" 1¼" hole in upper 3½" hole in lower 215/8" A , 14½" E Drill a hole at each corner and jigsaw between the holes. A blade with 20 or more teeth per inch makes smooth cuts. B 1½" 3 2 13/8" 47/8" 10½" K K

F Use the 3½" hole edges as a template dado clean-out bit (inset). FENCE PARTS Note: By not gluing the inserts (O) to the backer (M), you can replace them should they become worn or damaged. Note: The center braces (P) are spaced to accept a 13∕8" vacuum hose end. Reposition them and widen the hood (Q) for a larger hose end. FENCE O 1" 5/16" hole P (lower) for routing into the upper top (K) using a 15/16" N L R=5/8" L 8½" M 77/8" O M ¾" 17" FENCE BASE 1" 17" 1¼" FENCE BACKER P 15/16" P 2¾" 1½" P Q Build this simple jig and dado the top (K) for tight-fitting T-tracks. From ½" plywood, cut two 3¼×8" pieces and one ¾×2½" filler. Glue the filler between the 8" pieces, as shown at Insert a piece of T-track in the opening to help maintain the correct spacing. Clamp the template to the top over a track location and use a dado clean-out bit to rout a stopped dado. Square the corners with a chisel. SIDE VIEW O N M P L Q Template G Rout stopped dadoes for the tracks in a series of shallow passes using a dado clean-out bit guided by the routing template. Stop when the T-track fits flush with the top face of the top (K). H The base, backer, and cap (L, M, N) form a Z-shape framework. Double-check that the edge of the cap (N) rests flush with the rear face of the backer (M). right. Filler T-track 5a Centered hole to fit your vacuum hose 45º 90º A K 4 5 N M L 1½" 17" #8 x 1¼" F.H. screw 77/8" 1" round knob 2" ½" 25/8" 45º bevel 2" 2½" 17" 1¾" ½" 3" 1¼" T-bolt 2¾" ¾"

I The continuous hinge installs just below T-bolts to clear the slot. F A K B B O H the bottom of the T-track, allowing the F C C F O P L K J H I N F J Q I J Installing or adjusting the trim router A B C D E F G *H I J K bottom sides front/back large corner blocks small corner blocks long legs short legs leg rails shroud sides shroud front/back top Materials key: Supplies: Blade and bit: Sources: 13" 51⁄2" 51⁄2" 13⁄4" 11⁄2" 11⁄2" 11⁄2" 11⁄2" 47⁄8" 47⁄8" 141⁄2" is as easy as unlatching and raising the top. 201⁄8" 13" 215⁄8" 31⁄2" 31⁄2" 10" 41⁄2" 10" 101⁄2" 6" 215⁄8" BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB BB Produced by John Olson Project design: John Olson Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson Robert Wilson with 1 2 2 4 4 4 4 4 2 2 2 1 1 1 2 4 1 Cutting Diagram Materials List FINISHED SIZE Part Case and legs T W L Matl. Qty. 1⁄2" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 1⁄2" Fence L base 23⁄4" 17" M backer 11⁄2" 17" N cap 11⁄2" 17" O inserts 2" 77⁄8" P braces 13⁄4" 13⁄4" Q dust hood 21⁄2" 25⁄8" *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions. 1⁄2" 3⁄4" 1⁄2" 3⁄4" 1⁄2" 1⁄2" ½ x 48 x 48" Baltic birch plywood BB–Baltic birch plywood. #6×3⁄8" flathead screws, #8×11⁄4" flathead screws, #8×21⁄2" flathead screws. 22-teeth-per-inch jigsaw blade (or finer); ½"diameter dado clean-out bit. Universal T-track no. 22104, $15; 1¼" T-bolts no. 31969 [pack of 5], $4; 1"-diam. ¼"-20 knobs (2) no. 58088, $3; 36×1½" continuous hinge no. 30085, $17; nickel-plated large catches no. 89913, $13/pair, Rockler, 800-279-4441, rockler.com. Brainerd 96mm (3¾") stainless steel finish bar pull, no. 875299, $6.58; Frost King 10'×¾" black rubber foam weatherstrip, no. 96244, $4, Lowes, lowes.com and local stores. E D M GGGG ¾ x 24 x 48" Baltic birch plywood K C