With careful setup, a straight bit in the router table cuts accurate, repeatable grooves. To cut the stopped grooves in the back stiles (H) and mortises in the back top rail (I), clamp stopblocks to both ends of the fence to define the start and stop points of the groove. This ensures identical results in matching parts and allows you to focus on providing firm pressure toward the fence and the table while you rout.
2 Cut to size the remaining seat and back parts (F–M). Cut the tenons on the ends of the seat front and back rails (F), back stiles (H), and back short rails (J) [Drawing 7]. Bevel the back stiles.
3 Rout the grooves in the seat front and back rails and back short rails [Drawing 7], then the stopped grooves in the back stiles and mortises in the top rail (I) [Skill Builder]. Square up the ends of the stopped grooves with a chisel.
4 Rabbet the seat (G) and back panel (K) [Drawing 7]. Glue and clamp the seat assembly (E–G) and back assembly (H–K). Use a fairing stick to lay out the curve on the outside edges of the seat side rails (E) [Drawing 6], bandsaw them, and sand them smooth. 5 Dry-fit the seat assembly between the side assemblies, and drill the pilot holes through the legs (B, C) into the seat side rails (E) [Exploded View]. Glue and screw the seat assembly between the sides. Glue a plug into each counterbore.
6 Adjust the fit of the back assembly to the seat and sides [Photo M], then mark and drill the pilot holes and counterbores in the top rail (I) and seat back rail (F) [Drawing 7, Exploded View]. Glue and screw the back to the chair, then plug each counterbore.
A little extra support
1 Cut the curve on the seat front support (L) [Drawing 8], bevel the ends, then glue it under the seat frame [Exploded View, Photo N]. Glue and clamp the seat back support (M) to the bottom of the seat, 1⁄4" from the back. 2 Finish-sand the chair to 220 grit, easing any sharp edges. Apply a finish. We wiped on three coats of tung oil.
3 Give the gift of rocking joy to a little sitter in your life.
H
K
Turn the router on and place the end of the back stile (H) against the first stopblock. Slowly lower the stile onto the bit, applying firm pressure toward the fence.
SEAT ASSEMBLY
EHIFKJHGEFH
H
L
Push the workpiece forward until you hit the second stopblock, then turn off the router and lift the piece from the table after the bit stops. Reset the stopblocks to rout the mortises in the back top rail (I).
Learn how to make and use a fairing stick. ¼" mortise, centered, ½" deep 11½" ¼" tenon, ½" long 1½"J 2¾" ¼" stopped groove, centered, ½" deep 71/8" 53/8" 7/16" rabbet 3/16" deep 13¾" ¼" groove, centered, ½" deep 45/8" 4" ¼" tenon, ½" long 15º bevels 1/8" pilot hole with a 3/8" counterbore, ¼" deep on bottom face ¼" groove, centered, ½" deep 11¼" ¼" groove, centered, ½" deep 9¼" 3/8" plug 9½" ¼" tenon, ½" long woodmagazine.com/ fairing
Produced by Zach Brown with
Project design: John Olson
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson Brian Bergstrom O O O O O O W O O O W O O
Cutting Diagram
GEBGEBHAJAB
M
Plane a slight bevel on the front face of the back top rail (I) back leg (B) until you have a good fit. ¾ x 5½ x 96" Oak ¾ x 3½ x 48" Oak ½ x 5½ x 24" Walnut
I *Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List.
Cwhere it meets a
IDLFMC with the front legs (C).
FA B C D E F G H I J K L M
E
L
N
Glue and clamp the seat front support (L)
SEAT FRONT SUPPORT rockers back legs front legs arms seat side rails seat front/back rails seat back stiles back top rail back short rails back panel seat front support seat back support
Materials key: Supplies: Blade and bits: cutter.
F to the bottom of the seat frame, flush 23⁄4" 55⁄8" 11⁄2" 13⁄4" 3" 21⁄2" 91⁄4" 11⁄2" 2" 11⁄4" 33⁄4" 11⁄2"
LL193⁄4" 23" 143⁄4" 111⁄2" 111⁄4" 91⁄2" 7" 133⁄4" 111⁄2" 4" 53⁄8" 111⁄2" 101⁄8" 4º Top View ¾" 7/16" 11½" Front View FINISHED SIZE Part T W L Matl. Qty. 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 7⁄16" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 7⁄16" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" 3⁄4" O–oak, W–walnut.
#8×2" flathead screws, #8×11⁄4" flathead screws. Dado set; spiral upcut router bit; plug 1⁄4" 3⁄8" * * *K This project requires 51⁄2 board feet of 4/4 oak and 1 square foot of walnut. 1⁄2"