Under-wing Tablesaw Storage
Attached to your attachments? Protect them in the heavy-duty drawers of this cabinet that slips beneath the extension wing of your tablesaw. Roll it out again when you need an assembly table.
Make a case for storage
Refer to the finished dimensions on the previous page and confirm that the cabinet will fit beneath your saw’s extension wing. If not, adjust part sizes as needed. 1 Cut parts A–H [Materials List, Drawing 1]. Cut biscuit slots in the sides (A) and top/ bottom (B). Glue the sides to the top and bottom and check for square. Then glue the drawer spacers (G) to the assembly.
2 Biscuit-join the back (C) to two vertical trim pieces (D) [Drawing 1]. Glue the back assembly to the case (A/B/G). 3 Biscuit-join the front trim (D–F) to the case and glue the caster cleats (H) to the case bottom (B).
4 Cut the outer top (I) 1∕4" oversize in both dimensions. Glue and screw it centered on the case top (B), then trim it [Photo A]. 5 Cut each molding (J, K) 2" overlength and round over one edge [Exploded View]. Miter-cut and glue them to the case [Photo B].
Add three heavy-duty drawers
1 From scrap, cut two spacers 201∕2" and 1113∕16" tall. To install a top drawer slide [Sources], hold the tall spacer against a side (A), rest the slide atop the spacer set back 3∕4" from the front edge, and screw the slide to the cabinet. Repeat for the other side and for the middle slides using the short spacer [Photo C]. Rest the bottom slides on the case bottom (B) [Exploded View] and screw them in place. 2 Cut parts L–Q [Drawing 2]. Dado the drawer sides (L–N) [Skill Builder]. Then rabbet the drawer fronts and backs (O–Q) [Photo D].
3 Cut the drawer-bottom grooves [Drawing 2a, Photo E]. Cut the drawer bottoms (R) and assemble the drawers.
4 Notch the drawer backs (O–Q) [Drawing 2a, Photo F]. Then drill the stopped holes in the drawer backs to accept the slides.
Tip! Tape the drill bit ½" from the tip to avoid accidentally drilling through the drawer backs.
5 Screw the front clips to the drawer fronts (O–Q) [Photo H]. Rest the drawers on the slides and seat the slides in the clips.
6 Cut the drawer false fronts (S–U). Cut the false front trim (V–Y) 2" longer than listed. Miter the ends to fit the false fronts and glue on the trim.
7 With the drawers installed in the cabinet, use double-faced tape to fasten the false fronts to the drawer fronts with an even reveal. Remove the drawers and screw the false fronts to the drawers [Drawing 2]. Drill holes to accept the drawer handles [Sources] and screw the handles to the drawers.
Ready to stock and roll
1 Remove the drawers and hardware from the cabinet. Sand to 180 grit and apply a clear finish of your choice.
2 Install the casters [Sources, Exploded View], and reinstall the hardware and drawers. Then gather those blades, jigs, and saw accessories scattered around your shop and store them where you’ll use them.
Tip! Add two extra coats to the top (I) if you plan to use the cabinet as an assembly table.
The deep bottom drawer can hold 10" saw blades on edge. Tip! Biscuits accelerate your glue-up by quickly aligning parts.
C A scrapwood spacer supports each drawer slide screw it in place. parallel with the cabinet bottom while you
A Remove the overhang on the outer top using a flush-trim bit.
B Miter one end of each molding (J, K) and clamp it in position while you mark where to miter-cut the opposite end.
D Attach an auxiliary face to your rip fence with the outside just touching the dado set to rabbet the drawer fronts and backs (O–Q).
H Use the blue wheel on the front clips to fine-tune the fit of the drawers. Position the under-mount drawer-slide clips snug against the drawer sides (L–N) and drill pilot holes.