Un­der-wing Ta­ble­saw Stor­age

At­tached to your at­tach­ments? Pro­tect them in the heavy-duty draw­ers of this cab­i­net that slips be­neath the ex­ten­sion wing of your ta­ble­saw. Roll it out again when you need an as­sem­bly ta­ble.

WOOD - - FRONT PAGE - Pro­duced by Robert Wil­son with John Ol­son and Brian Bergstrom Project de­sign: John Ol­son Il­lus­tra­tions: Roxanne Le­Moine, Lorna John­son

Make a case for stor­age

Re­fer to the fin­ished di­men­sions on the pre­vi­ous page and con­firm that the cab­i­net will fit be­neath your saw’s ex­ten­sion wing. If not, ad­just part sizes as needed. 1 Cut parts A–H [Ma­te­ri­als List, Draw­ing 1]. Cut bis­cuit slots in the sides (A) and top/ bot­tom (B). Glue the sides to the top and bot­tom and check for square. Then glue the drawer spac­ers (G) to the as­sem­bly.

2 Bis­cuit-join the back (C) to two ver­ti­cal trim pieces (D) [Draw­ing 1]. Glue the back as­sem­bly to the case (A/B/G). 3 Bis­cuit-join the front trim (D–F) to the case and glue the caster cleats (H) to the case bot­tom (B).

4 Cut the outer top (I) 1∕4" over­size in both di­men­sions. Glue and screw it cen­tered on the case top (B), then trim it [Photo A]. 5 Cut each mold­ing (J, K) 2" over­length and round over one edge [Ex­ploded View]. Miter-cut and glue them to the case [Photo B].

Add three heavy-duty draw­ers

1 From scrap, cut two spac­ers 201∕2" and 1113∕16" tall. To in­stall a top drawer slide [Sources], hold the tall spacer against a side (A), rest the slide atop the spacer set back 3∕4" from the front edge, and screw the slide to the cab­i­net. Re­peat for the other side and for the mid­dle slides us­ing the short spacer [Photo C]. Rest the bot­tom slides on the case bot­tom (B) [Ex­ploded View] and screw them in place. 2 Cut parts L–Q [Draw­ing 2]. Dado the drawer sides (L–N) [Skill Builder]. Then rab­bet the drawer fronts and backs (O–Q) [Photo D].

3 Cut the drawer-bot­tom grooves [Draw­ing 2a, Photo E]. Cut the drawer bot­toms (R) and as­sem­ble the draw­ers.

4 Notch the drawer backs (O–Q) [Draw­ing 2a, Photo F]. Then drill the stopped holes in the drawer backs to ac­cept the slides.

Tip! Tape the drill bit ½" from the tip to avoid ac­ci­den­tally drilling through the drawer backs.

5 Screw the front clips to the drawer fronts (O–Q) [Photo H]. Rest the draw­ers on the slides and seat the slides in the clips.

6 Cut the drawer false fronts (S–U). Cut the false front trim (V–Y) 2" longer than listed. Miter the ends to fit the false fronts and glue on the trim.

7 With the draw­ers in­stalled in the cab­i­net, use dou­ble-faced tape to fas­ten the false fronts to the drawer fronts with an even re­veal. Re­move the draw­ers and screw the false fronts to the draw­ers [Draw­ing 2]. Drill holes to ac­cept the drawer han­dles [Sources] and screw the han­dles to the draw­ers.

Ready to stock and roll

1 Re­move the draw­ers and hard­ware from the cab­i­net. Sand to 180 grit and ap­ply a clear fin­ish of your choice.

2 In­stall the cast­ers [Sources, Ex­ploded View], and re­in­stall the hard­ware and draw­ers. Then gather those blades, jigs, and saw ac­ces­sories scat­tered around your shop and store them where you’ll use them.

Tip! Add two ex­tra coats to the top (I) if you plan to use the cab­i­net as an as­sem­bly ta­ble.

The deep bot­tom drawer can hold 10" saw blades on edge. Tip! Bis­cuits ac­cel­er­ate your glue-up by quickly align­ing parts.

C A scrap­wood spacer sup­ports each drawer slide screw it in place. par­al­lel with the cab­i­net bot­tom while you

A Re­move the over­hang on the outer top us­ing a flush-trim bit.

B Miter one end of each mold­ing (J, K) and clamp it in po­si­tion while you mark where to miter-cut the op­po­site end.

D At­tach an aux­il­iary face to your rip fence with the out­side just touch­ing the dado set to rab­bet the drawer fronts and backs (O–Q).

H Use the blue wheel on the front clips to fine-tune the fit of the draw­ers. Po­si­tion the un­der-mount drawer-slide clips snug against the drawer sides (L–N) and drill pilot holes.

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