Dual-duty Table­saw Sled

WOOD - - FRONT PAGE -

Be­fore you cut the sled parts, align your table­saw blade par­al­lel to the miter slots. Then ad­just the rip fence par­al­lel to the blade and slots. See wood­magazine.com/ saw­tuneup for tips on pre­par­ing your saw.

Ace the base

This sled can cross­cut parts up to 17∕" wide and miter-cut stock up to 3∕" wide. To miter­cut wider parts, lengthen the base (A) and miter­slot run­ners (D). The assem­bly steps re­main the same. 1 Cut the base (A) [Ma­te­ri­als List, Ex­ploded View]. Saw to shape, round over, and sand the yokes (B, C) [Drawing 1]. Glue and screw the yokes to the base.

2 Saw the miter-slot run­ners (D) for a snug fit in­side the miter slots. 3 Po­si­tion the saw’s rip fence to cen­ter the blade on the width of the base. Place three pen­nies or wash­ers about 10" apart in each miter slot. Ap­ply dou­ble-faced tape on one face of each run­ner, and lay the run­ners on the pen­nies with ends aligned. 4 With the base edge held tight against the fence, press the base onto the run­ners [Ex­ploded View, Photo A]. Make test cross­cuts to con­firm the back yoke (B) is 90° to the blade, then screw the run­ners to the base.

Add a miter-maker

1 Saw the miter-plate base (E) [Drawing 2]. Cut the miter-plate faces (F) 2" longer than listed.

2 Miter-cut both ends of the miter-plate faces to length and glue them to the miter-plate base [Drawing 2]. 3 Raise the table­saw blade to 11∕8". Cen­ter the miter plate (E/F) on the base kerf with the faces 45° to the edges of the sled [Photo B]. Hold the miter plate in po­si­tion while you cut through the bot­tom. 4 Cut the miter-plate key (G) to fit the width of the saw kerf in the base. Glue it into the miter plate (E/F) [Photo C].

Switch from cross-cut­ting to miters in sec­onds by drop­ping the miter plate into the sled-base kerf. Pop it out again to make cross­cuts.

Tip! Lubri­cate the run­ners with paraf­fin or paste wax to help them slide smoothly in­side the miter slots. Tape the base (A) to the run­ners (D) with the ends of the run­ners flush with the back edge of the base.

B Align the miter-plate faces (F) 45° to the base edges even base (E) doesn’t rest flat against the back yoke (B). Note: To cut the miter-plate base (E), switch to a cir­cu­lar saw and a shop-made cut­ting guide. wood­magazine.com/ circ­sawguide if the long edge of the miter­plate

C Glue the miter-plate key (G) flush with the front ends of the miter-plate faces (F). The end of the key will slide in­side the kerf cut in the back yoke (B).

Pro­duced by Robert Wil­son with Kevin Boyle Project de­sign: Michael Driver, Strongsville, Ohio Il­lus­tra­tions: Roxanne Le­Moine, Lorna John­son WOOD mag­a­zine Oc­to­ber 2018

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.