Empty the cutoff bin and turn out a tremendous table.
Make this table uniquely yours, using remnants of past projects, and colored by whatever species you choose.
Start with a solid base
1 Cut the legs (A) and stretchers (B) to size and shape [Drawing 1, Materials List]. Cut mating notches in the stretchers [Exploded View].
2 Cut biscuit slots in the legs and stretchers, then glue the stretchers together. After the glue dries, glue the legs to this assembly [Photo A].
3 Cut and sand the bases (C) to size and shape [Exploded View]. Scribe the bases onto two pieces of 71∕4×143∕4" solid stock for the base trim (D) [Photo B, Drawing 2], marking each piece so you can mate them up again. Cut along the lines and sand for a close fit. Mark the outer edge [Photo C], cut and sand the trim to shape, and glue it on [Photo D]. 4 Round over the curved edges of each trim (D) [Exploded View]. Glue and pocketscrew the base/trim assemblies flush with the bottom edges of the stretchers.
Clean out the scrap bin
You’ll need two blanks at least 21∕2×101∕2×27" made of glued-up scrap to cover the table. As you build them up, keep the thickness less than 3" [Photo E] so you can cut the blanks at the tablesaw.
1 For each blank, we ripped and planed scraps to make four glue-ups about 25∕8" square, and a fifth about 1×25∕8" [Photo E, Skill Builder]. Joint and plane the glue-ups square, then glue them into a wide blank [Photo F]. 2 After the glue dries, plane both faces of the blanks to bring them to 21∕2" thick. Crosscut one end square to an edge. 3 Measure from the top of a base (C) to the top of a stretcher (B). Crosscut 16 blocks to this length.
4 Glue up the strips to fill out each section (E) [Photos G–I].
Add the finishing touches
1 Position each section (E) on a base (C) and scribe around them to transfer the trim (D) curve to the bottom of each section. Bandsaw and sand to the line.
2 Round over the curved edges of each section [Exploded View]. Drill and countersink 3∕16" shank holes through the base/trim (C/D), and 1∕8" pilot holes into the sections. Screw the sections in place (no glue). 3 Sand the top flat and smooth. Apply a clear finish. (We used Danish oil topped with lacquer to minimize yellowing the lighter colored woods.) Now start collecting more scraps for your next table.
Tip! Start with 80 grit to smooth the end grain and work up to 220 grit.
Produced by Craig Ruegsegger with John Olson Project design: John Olson Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine, Lorna Johnson
TABLETOP BASE TRIM
B Position each base (C), extend the straight edges, and trace along the curved side. Tip! Don’t worry about keeping edges perfectly flush while building the blanks. Instead, joint a surface before adding the next piece of scrap.
D Glue the trim to the base, clamping as shown. Keep the faces of the pieces flush.
C Nest each base against its trim, and strike a 101∕4" arc. Cut and sand to the line.
E Mix up species, thicknesses, and widths in each glue-up. completed table. This adds visual interest to the
F Assemble the glue-ups into one wide blank. Press the bottom edges against the clamp bars to provide a flat surface to rest on the planer bed later.
G Arrange the strips in a chevron pattern. Place parallel strips in the same orientation (indicated by the highlighted section of the pattern).
H Bandsaw these strips. Dry-fit the strips and mark 101∕2" and 11" radii on them. Bandsaw along the 11" radius on the two inner strips.
I Cutoffs 10½" radius Fill in the section with the two cutoffs. Make sure the cutoffs extend beyond the 101∕2" radius line. Glue the six pieces together to make a section (E).