Alexandre Vauthier
Alexandre Vauthier went full throttle on his Eighties obsession, re- creating a London nightclub for the catwalk set.
Subtlety had left the dance floor as the designer remembered the fashions of the New Wave and New Romantic periods, only through the lens of a French guy who used to work at Thierry Mugler.
The result with its strong volumes felt more like an Eighties-couture costume party, with the tributes flowing to designers including Yves Saint Laurent — in the peasant looks; the strong shoulder; the breast-baring tuxedo with the sheer band, and a look sporting a giant gold tartan taffeta bow stuck to its front — and Emanuel Ungaro in a run of polka dot including scrunchy plumetis stiletto boots that are bound to be till ringers.
The headgear included caps with hardcore undertones, while the designer also presented a hook-up with legendary French eyewear designer Alain Mikli on four styles.
Pure Vauthier classics were woven into the mix like the high-waisted voluminous pants and Cossack-style bottoms, as well as the sexy long draped jersey dresses with strong shoulders.
The over-the-top, after-dark garb is not for everyone, but should prove catnip to his followers — like Aurélie Dupont, director of dance at the Paris Opera Ballet, or Emmanuelle Seigner, who sat front row drinking it all in. — Katya Foreman