Fall 2018 Beauty Trends from Milan and London
Chic, sophisticated hair dominated the runways at London shows such as Erdem, J.W. Anderson, Simone Rocha and Temperley London.
“A modern type of Twenties hair” is how Anthony Turner, who was working with L’Oréal Professionnel products and Dyson tools, described the beauty look at Erdem. “The side parting gives a masculine feel to the hair,” he said. “While the finger wave creates a Twenties aesthetic, this is a girl who’s been trudging around her estate in all weathers. So the wave is mushy and imperfect, and the color of the hair pins contrasts [with] that of her hair to make it seem random and homemade.”
At J.W. Anderson, Turner went for a sleek, flicked-out Sixties bob style. “She is very existential, intelligent, well-kept, with very beautiful hair,” he said. “The inspiration is basically a very well-groomed art student with a bit of a Sixties vibe to it.”
Over at Simone Rocha, hair was styled by James Pecis, who created chignons or braided updos. “The painter John Constable was one of the starting points for the inspiration,” he explained. “It was more about the color scheme in his paintings and also his portraits of women. There is a lot of tailoring in this collection, so they wanted to bring a tomboy feeling.”
At Temperley London, actresses from the Thirties were the focus for hairstylist Antonio Corral Calero. Working with Moroccanoil, he created glamorous wavy hair by parting tresses and pinning sections into waves.
Over at MSGM, hair was styled by Anthony Turner, who celebrated the individuality of each model walking the show. He explained the aim was to bring their hair back to life and celebrate its particularities. So textures were left au naturel except for on a handful of models, for whom it was pulled back with a simple headband.
At Etro, James Pecis went with free-flowing hair, too, saying he gleaned inspiration from the idea of “a woman traveling on a horse to the desert in the Seventies.” The hairstylist applied oil to keep tresses away from models’ faces as they made their way down the catwalk.
Loose hair was also noted on the runways at Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo.
Looks ranged from sophisticated to au naturel.
There was a plethora of sparkle and shine shimmering on models at the Delpozo, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and Temperley London shows in London.
Glitter glowed on models’ hairlines and foreheads at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi as if they had just emerged from the water. There, Val Garland crafted a highshine look as speckles of glitter were blown onto models’ faces.
For the hair look for the show, created by Eugene Souleiman, some models sported glittery side parts. “The inspiration for the hair is sea anemones,” he said. “We want the girls to look like they’re in water, with their hair looking otherworldly — like it is floating with zero gravity. We’re putting glitter in their hair, so it’s glistening.”
Makeup artist Mónica Marmo said she took inspiration from the textures and finishes of Delpozo’s fall collection. “Focusing on this, I created contrast with the beauty look by giving the models matte skin and eyes painted with a shiny, metallic silver,” Marmo said.
Charlotte Tilbury looked to film stars and paid homage to the Thirties and Seventies for her beauty look at for Temperley London, which included what she called a “smoky bronze Hollywood eye.” numerous catwalks in Milan.
Peter Philips said he was inspired by the sophisticated Fendi woman in creating the makeup look for the fashion brand’s show. He illuminated models’ faces with dashes of white cream applied from the inside corners of their eyes to their noses.
Prada’s show, meanwhile, was a tale of two beauty looks — bold makeup with sparkly eyes on the one hand and a natural, fresh take on the other. The inspiration overall was a fresh, very modern feeling, “but then we played with graphic shapes,” explained Pat McGrath. Those were created with crystals applied around eyes in bold colors such as green, blue and pink on a handful of models.
At Antonio Marras, Tom Pecheux said: “It’s all about the eyes — they give a bold and powerful feeling with a romantic twist.” There was not one look created for the show, but rather they ranged from red vivid eye shadow swept along lids to the eyebrows to red wings and blackrimmed peepers.
Other shows having the eyes in focus included Emporio Armani, Max Mara and Ujoh.
Bold brows had a moment on the runways of London shows such as Isa Arfen, J.W. Anderson and Toga. “She’s a handsome, Brooke Shields, super-woman,” said Aaron de Mey, who worked with Nars Cosmetics at the J.W. Anderson show, where models were given exaggerated eyebrows that looked like “they haven’t been plucked.”
“The inspiration for this season was raw beauty, with an emphasis on fresh skin, boyish brows and haunting eyes,” said makeup artist Andrew Gallimore, who brushed models’ brows up at Isa Arfen.
At Toga, makeup artist Sada Ito said:
“The makeup look this season is fresh, polished skin with a strong eyebrow. It’s all about confidence.”