The Model Cure
In the wake of ongoing abuse allegations, industry experts weigh in with ideas on how to safeguard models and improve working conditions.
Where do we go from here?
After a spate of sexual misconduct allegations against several high-profile photographers, stylists and senior executives, the fashion industry is reconsidering the treatment of models and ways to strengthen their voices.
The recalibration underway has been triggered by investigative pieces by The Boston Globe and The New York Times that highlighted models’ accusations against Bruce Weber, Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier, Greg Kadel, Karl Templer, Seth Sabal, David Bellemere and others. Those stories followed the allegations against Harvey Weinstein, who has long been a figure in the fashion world, as well as allegations against Paul Marciano, cofounder of Guess Inc. All of the accused have denied any wrongdoing. Most recent has been the departures of senior executives at Nike Inc. and the chief executive officer of Lululemon, Laurent Potdevin, for behavior the companies said was not up to their standards. The momentum is bolstered by the #MeToo movement and Time’s Up, and more recently the Hollywood-sparked “Ask More of Him.”
Fueling what some consider to be the-victims-are-always-right spirit, more allegations seem to be made nearly daily. Last month an anonymous list called “S--t Model Management’s Blacklist” was posted on a Google spreadsheet that contained some 300 names of people in the fashion industry who were advised to be avoided by models because they had allegedly acted sexually inappropriately in the past. Names listed without an asterisk were a warning, since they had only been named once. But those with an asterisk had been named over three times. The administrator took down the list March 6, reportedly due to concerns over her well-being and her family’s safety. Before doing so, she said these names were simply allegations told to her over direct messages. The blacklist contained some well-known names, including photographers, stylists and designers. Some compared its feel to the “S----y Media Men” list created by Moira Donegan. The advertising world has its own with @DietMadisonAvenue.
Fashion firms already have moved to institute safeguards for models. After Kering and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton issued a charter for models in the fall, Condé Nast and Tapestry Inc. — parent of Coach and Kate Spade — in January released ones of their own for photo/video shoots and fashion shows and presentations with the intention of safeguarding those who work with the companies. Calvin Klein is expected to issue a new policy handbook soon.
Among the procedures in Tapestry’s policy are that models who appear in fashion shows, campaigns and presentations must be at least 16 years of age, unless promoting children’s products, and all models under 18 must have a parent, guardian or chaperone with them. Closed sets are prohibited and at no time should a model or others be left alone on set with individuals linked to the production, i.e., photographers, makeup artists, stylists, etc.
A spokesman for Ralph Lauren Corp., said, “Our highest priority is ensuring our employees and outside partners feel welcome, safe and can perform at their best. For many years, we have had stringent antiharassment policies and practices in place. Most recently, we have extended our Fair Treatment Policy to cover third parties, as well as requiring antiharassment training focused on respect and inclusion in the workplace for all of our employees globally. In addition to our enhanced policies and trainings we are also taking steps to create a dialogue about harassment with formalized discussions with our employees.”
Leading executives in the industry were willing to share specific suggestions to improve the treatment of models, including some that have already been put into practice. Elite Models is working on a code of conduct and empowering its models to give them a voice. IMG Models already has a program called Model Prep, which used to meet twice a year, and now meets monthly to allow its models to discuss the challenges they’re confronting and offers them guidance, support and resources to cope. According to an internal document, obtained by WWD, IMG has an antiharassment policy and monitors casting hours and conditions, among other things. “No one should have to endure a hostile work environment or unwanted sexual advances. We advise our models to speak up if they feel uncomfortable, call us immediately and/or remove themselves from the situation,” according to the document.
Other companies chose not to comment about potential changes that could improve working conditions for models by not responding to requests, citing travel plans, work commitments or just declining comment altogether, including executives from Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Victoria’s Secret. Also declining were The Lions Model Management, Ford Models, Juergen Teller, Peter Lindbergh, Law Roach, Bon Duke, Viviane Sassen, Petra Collins, Women Management, Marco Tenaglia, Tyra Banks, Marilyn Agency, Nigel Barker, Mario Sorrenti,
Elliott Sailors, Karla Welch, Lauren Hutton, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen and Sante D’Orazio.
To be sure, the frenetic nature of the fashion industry, which is only getting blindingly faster, can affect the mood on set. Stylist and Love magazine founding editor in chief Katie Grand noted how the average number of pictures on a commercial shoot has jumped from six to 20-plus or even as many as 50. In addition, production teams are often shooting behind-the-scenes photos, video and interviews.
“As our jobs become more and more about content, there is more stuff that’s crammed into a day,” she said. “It doesn’t lead to happy, unstressed people. If you’re working on a big show, there are millions of euros at stake. There are reputations, big egos and very little sleep with a limited amount of time to do stuff. People don’t behave as they would in a normal situation. They shout, they get upset. People can be irrational in those situations, which I don’t think is particular to the fashion industry. But you just can’t behave like that any more. I mean, you shouldn’t have behaved like that anyway. Of course, some situations are ridiculous and some people are asking crazy things, but everyone needs to stay calm and be mindful of others.”
Others preferred to not be identified in discussing some of the reasons the industry has become so dehumanized. In this instantaneous age of fashion, where followers often lose interest from one minute to the next, designers and brands “cycle through models” in their own version of fast fashion. “It’s almost like cheap labor. They’re not looking at someone as a person, but as someone who fills a ridiculous dress size,” one executive said.
One well-connected photographer suggested that absolute power has led to an absolutist system of fashion. “The same people do all of the work, who have been working since the Eighties. Not only is it extremely boring, but it creates monsters (such as those older photographers who have been abusing their power for decades). Because the entire system is supporting those 10 people and allows them to do as they wish.”
The genre could use a reset, the photographer continued. “Make fashion photography about fashion again, instead of about sexualizing women and fetishizing women’s bodies. Fashion photography in a lot of circumstances has evolved into softcore pornography. Clothing should be the focus, not the person wearing the clothing. À la Comme des Garçons in the Eighties or Ann Demeulemeester in the Nineties. If someone wants to look at half-naked women there are a lot of other places in print and online to do that.”
Research is pretty consistent in showing that sex appeal doesn’t translate to higher sales, according to Rebecca R. Ortiz, Ph.D., assistant professor of advertising, S.I. Newhouse School of Public Communications at Syracuse University. The trend has been moving away from sex appeal for the past two or three years, she said. “In fashion, it’s happening more recently in a reflection of the movement.…With the Super Bowl, there was very little sex appeal or any nod toward gender-related issues. Brands right now are scared, they’re afraid of making a mistake or stepping out of line. They’re trying to figure out what are these new lines of cultural acceptance.”
As people become more conscientious about what’s happening on sets, Sam Shahid, owner of Shahid & Co., expects fashion shoots to shift to the “more conservative” and “less creative.” “There will be a lot less freedom to express yourself, for a while anyway,” he said, adding that rather than photographers barking orders like, ‘Move to your left,’ they’ll say, ‘Turn to the left please.’ And they won’t scream out, ‘Pay attention.’”
Modeling executives, photographers and stylists weigh in with ideas to improve how models navigate the industry.
WWD reached out to dozens of modeling executives, photographers and stylists about initiatives and ideas that would help to better protect models and improve their working conditions. Here’s what they had to say.