Berlin Fairs Prove Sta­ble Fo­cal Point For Lo­cal Mar­ket

WWD Digital Daily - - News - BY QUYNH TRAN

The eight trade fairs dur­ing Berlin Fash­ion Week es­tab­lish as fo­cal points for the D-A-CH mar­ket with dis­tinc­tive pro­pos­als.

the Berlin trade shows was up­beat as the Ger­man econ­omy re­mains ro­bust and con­sumer sen­ti­ment con­tin­ues to rise.

Af­ter last sea­son’s un­cer­tain­ties around the re­struc­tur­ing of Berlin Fash­ion Week, the eight trade shows run­ning from July 3 to 5 pro­vided some sta­bil­ity for the lo­cal fash­ion in­dus­try. They re­main a fo­cal point for brands that want to es­tab­lish a mar­ket in the D-A-CH re­gion (Ger­many, Aus­tria and Switzerland), the Benelux coun­tries, Scan­di­navia and Eastern Europe.

Pre­mium Group fur­ther de­fined the pro­files of its four plat­forms: Pre­mium for men’s and women’s pre­mium ap­parel; Show&Or­der as an im­me­di­ate or­der point for lower pre­mium women’s wear with a fo­cus on ac­ces­sories set up as an ex­am­ple de­part­ment store; Seek for streetwear, and Bright for skater cul­ture.

Messe Frank­furt’s Eth­i­cal Fash­ion Show for sus­tain­able ap­parel and Green­show­room for sus­tain­able pre­mium cloth­ing, Panorama for com­mer­cial men’s and women’s wear, and Selvedge Run for denim and her­itage brands also homed in on their niches.

While traf­fic was much lower than in past sea­sons, buy­ers ap­peared fo­cused and ex­hibitors noted that their clients were much bet­ter in­formed.

“The buy­ers who come are ex­tremely well-in­formed. They know ex­actly what they’re look­ing for and which brands can de­liver to their needs and un­der­stand how to speak to the end con­sumer. We are very happy with the fair. Our new col­lec­tion is col­or­ful, in­spired by Jean-Michel Basquiat, and we re­ceived fan­tas­tic” feed­back, said Vi­tus Over­gaard, head of in­ter­na­tional sales of Dan­ish brand Sam­soe & Sam­soe at Pre­mium.

“The fre­quency was lower, but all our im­por­tant buy­ers were here. The buyer re­ally is much bet­ter in­formed and very fo­cused,” echoed Michael Kramer, chief ex­ec­u­tive of­fi­cer of Herzen­san­gele­gen­heit, who pre­sented a col­or­ful col­lec­tion that was pop­u­lar with Ger­man buy­ers.

“The fairs are im­por­tant for us be­cause we plan our bud­gets and meet the brands. We wished the big denim brands would re­turn to the trade shows as we sell a lot with those. We’re al­ways look­ing for new trends. This sea­son we look for more col­ors, more chi­nos and a lit­tle less jeans,” said Martin Stehr, owner of S18 stores, which op­er­ates a net­work of six stores and a web­site in Sax­ony.

Be­sides the re­turn of color and max­i­mal­ism in the pre­mium seg­ment, the life­style as­pect is grow­ing stronger, with all fairs ex­hibit­ing more ac­ces­sories, beauty prod­ucts and tech and mo­bile gad­gets.

The shift of sports­wear and out­door brands into fash­ion con­tin­ued. While Red Bull pre­sented its fash­ion brand Al­pha Tauri at Pre­mium, Swiss her­itage brand Mam­mut glob­ally launched its new ur­ban line Mam­mut Delta X off­site dur­ing Berlin Fash­ion Week.

“Func­tion­al­ity and fash­ion are grow­ing to­gether and we’re def­i­nitely look­ing into this devel­op­ment. We dis­cov­ered a French ath-leisure brand at Pre­mium that we are very much in­ter­ested in work­ing with,” con­firmed Markus Höhn, ex­ec­u­tive part­ner at Lo­den­frey, one of Ger­many’s big­gest de­part­ment stores, lo­cated in Mu­nich.

As the econ­omy re­mains ro­bust and con­sumer sen­ti­ment is ris­ing, more young in­ter­na­tional brands from coun­tries like China, Korea, Thai­land and Rus­sia ex­hib­ited at the fairs this sea­son.

“We can gain more at­ten­tion here than in Paris, and heard pos­i­tive things from other young Thai brands who have been to the Berlin fairs,” said a rep­re­sen­ta­tive of Bangkok-based The Par­rot.

“I launched my brand in 2015 and the D-A-CH mar­ket is rel­e­vant for me and Berlin the go-to-point for Mid­dle Euro­pean and Scan­di­na­vian coun­tries. And while slightly too early in the sea­son, it’s bet­ter than too late like Tra­noi, where I was last sea­son. I also think that the clear pro­files with clear prod­uct and price pro­pos­als are much ap­pre­ci­ated by buy­ers and ex­hibitors alike, as you know ex­actly what to find where at which price point,” said Laura von Hagen of Swiss bag brand La­hara.

High­lights from the fairs: DE­SIGNER: An­to­nio Mar­ras IN­SPI­RA­TION: A jour­ney from the coun­try­side to the cities of Sar­dinia with a poppy flash of Amer­i­can road-trip im­agery à la Jack Ker­ouac set the scene for the re­sort 2019 col­lec­tion, cit­ing Sar­dinian folk­lore el­e­ments along­side Amer­i­can rock ’n’ roll. Ital­ian coun­try girl fem­i­nin­ity meets mo­tor­way pop cul­ture in this play­ful col­lec­tion with plen­ti­ful con­trast­ing col­ors and shapes.

KEY STYLES: Girl­ish blouses and dresses with San­gallo lace, flo­ral prints and volants re­flect the Sar­dinian in­flu­ences while T-shirts with prints, wide dun­ga­rees, biker jack­ets, me­chanic’s uni­forms with denim and leather em­body the Amer­i­can pit-stop and mo­tel cul­ture. RE­TAIL PRICES: Prices range from 70 eu­ros for T-shirts, 199 to 485 eu­ros for pants and jeans, to 1,017 eu­ros for denim jack­ets.

DE­SIGNER: Ly­dia Mau­rer IN­SPI­RA­TION: The third edi­tion of Ly­dia Mau­rer’s body-pos­i­tive swimwear line is a homage to Sal­vador Dalí’s muse Gala Dalí, with a color pal­ette of red, bur­gundy, cop­per and notes of blue, rem­i­nis­cent of French el­e­gance as well as the sum­mer col­ors of the Span­ish coast of Cadaqué. The ad­di­tional col­lab­o­ra­tion with Rita in Palma is a cro­chet col­lec­tion made by refugee women in Berlin’s Neukölln. KEY STYLES: Phy­lyda’s con­cept is based on tops and bot­toms that can be eas­ily com­bined, made of Ly­cra, tex­tured jacquards and Swiss cot­ton for a bet­ter fit. Among the best­sellers are high-waist bot­toms, wrap tops and hal­ter-neck tops.

RE­TAIL PRICES: Bikini bot­toms start at 49.99 eu­ros, tops are sold for 99.99 eu­ros, swim­suits for 129.99 and beach caf­tans for 199.99 eu­ros.

DE­SIGNER: Anna Hein­richs IN­SPI­RA­TION: “Hor­ror Vacui” trans­lates into “the fear of empti­ness,” and, in psy­chol­ogy, is re­lated to the urge ►

I'M Isola Mar­ras

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.