Roland Mouret’s Book A Med­i­ta­tion on Style, And Grow­ing Up

“It’s not a ret­ro­spec­tive,” said the de­signer, whose book will be pub­lished by Riz­zoli on Nov. 6.

WWD Digital Daily - - In Focus: Retailing - BY SAMAN­THA CONTI

“I didn’t want a ret­ro­spec­tive or a mu­seum show. That can all hap­pen when I’m dead,” said a vi­brant Roland Mouret, who’s set to re­lease his first book “Pro­voke, At­tract, Se­duce” on Nov. 6 (Riz­zoli).

“Twenty years have gone by. I just wanted to con­sider what I’ve done, look at the clothes again and try to un­der­stand them — and my cre­ative DNA,” said the de­signer from his town house, show­room and shop on Car­los Place in May­fair.

The cof­fee-ta­ble book was cre­ated with Mouret’s long­time col­lab­o­ra­tor, Sophia Neophi­tou-Apos­tolou, the fash­ion stylist and ed­i­tor of 10 Mag­a­zine, and the writer Alex Fury. In it, Mouret talks about his child­hood grow­ing up in Lour­des, France, as a butcher’s son, his early ca­reer as a model and move into fash­ion de­sign, his love of women’s bod­ies and ap­proach to de­sign.

He looked into his ar­chives and reshot all of the old looks as if they were new, work­ing with pho­tog­ra­phers in­clud­ing Van­ina Sor­renti, Alessio Bol­zoni and

Cedric Buchet. There are im­ages of his pre-col­lec­tions in there, too, along with arty col­lages by Brian Burn and a shoot called “Butcher’s Apron” by Tier­ney Gearon.

“The butcher’s apron was re­ally the start of ev­ery­thing,” Mouret says in the book. “All my tech­nique came from it. It is be­cause of that apron that I was not fright­ened to take a piece of fab­ric and to drape it, be­cause of that ed­u­ca­tion as a child, as a butcher’s son.”

While the book is more of a med­i­ta­tion on his style and ap­proach, rather than a look at the past, Mouret has reis­sued five styles from his ar­chive to mark the book’s launch and his 20 years in busi­ness.

He’s also cho­sen a fur­ther seven looks from past years for an ex­clu­sive cap­sule col­lec­tion with Match­es­fash­, called Tools of Se­duc­tion.

“This is my scratch book, my jour­ney,” he said of the Riz­zoli tome, adding that when he sets out to de­sign, he doesn’t have a grand or com­pli­cated plan. “I think of dress­ing my best friend.”

Mouret also talked about the speed of the in­dus­try. He thinks fash­ion needs to slow down, and that de­sign­ers need to make fewer clothes that last longer.

Fash­ion should be about per­sonal style, rather than trends, he said, and de­signer cloth­ing should be able to live in a woman’s closet “for a min­i­mum of five years, not just six months.” Mouret also thinks cus­tomers should also “stick to what they al­ready have and make it last longer,” and fo­cus on map­ping out their style and iden­tity rather than chase trends.

Mouret is plan­ning launch events later this month at Saks Fifth Av­enue in New York and at Neiman Mar­cus in Mi­ami and Los An­ge­les.

The cover of Roland Mouret’s first book, ti­tled “Pro­voke-At­trac­tSe­duce.”

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