New & Ling­wood Opens Store on Up­per East Side

WWD Digital Daily - - News - BY JEAN E. PALMIERI

This is the first U.S. out­post for the Bri­tish brand that was es­tab­lished in 1865.

The Bri­tish in­va­sion con­tin­ues.

On Thurs­day, New & Ling­wood, the men’s wear brand that traces its his­tory to Eton High Street in 1865, opened the

of New York door of its first store in the U.S. The 2,300-square-foot, two-level unit at 970 Lex­ing­ton Av­enue, be­tween 70th and

71st Streets, is only the third lo­ca­tion for the la­bel and joins the orig­i­nal 153-yearold shop in Eton as well as the flag­ship that has been on Jermyn Street in Lon­don since 1922.

The New York store of­fers ready-towear and fur­nish­ings on the main floor — in­clud­ing a vast se­lec­tion of socks — and made-to-mea­sure, for­mal­wear and lim­ited- edi­tion silk dress­ing gowns on the sec­ond level. The store also boasts an un­usual fea­ture for Man­hat­tan — an out­door gar­den in the rear, which New & Ling­wood can uti­lize for events in the nice weather.

New & Ling­wood is one of sev­eral U.K. brands to make a move to Man­hat­tan. In June, Har­rys of Lon­don, the footwear and ac­ces­sories la­bel, opened a bou­tique at Park Av­enue and 57th Street. Har­rys is owned by bil­lion­aire real es­tate de­vel­oper Charles Co­hen, who also owns a ma­jor­ity stake in Richard James and is close to open­ing a 2,000- square-foot flag­ship for that brand next door. The Richard James store is ex­pected to open in early De­cem­ber.

New York is prov­ing to be a suc­cess­ful land­ing spot for men’s wear brands from across the pond. Alexan­der Duck­worth, one of the own­ers of New & Ling­wood, said, “We had a pop-up on Madi­son Av­enue and 67th Street last hol­i­day sea­son and we were en­cour­aged enough to look for a full-time space.”

Duck­worth, who over­sees mar­ket­ing and brand­ing for New & Ling­wood, is one of three prin­ci­pals of POP Cap­i­tal, a U.S.based pri­vate eq­uity firm that pur­chased the brand in 2015. His part­ners are his cousin, Eli­jah Duck­worth-Schachter, who fo­cuses on fi­nance, and for­mer De Beers ex­ec­u­tive Ray Simp­son.

The New York store of­fers the core New & Ling­wood prod­uct as well as some other U.K. la­bels such as cigars from High­clere Cas­tle, oth­er­wise known as Down­ton Abbey; whisky from J. J. Corry; paint and wall­pa­per from Far­row & Ball, and jew­elry and leather goods from Asprey.

“We’re look­ing at it as less of a rackand-sell and more of an ex­pe­ri­ence with the gar­den and the Kings­man-es­que sock wall,” he said. New & Ling­wood mer­chan­dises its socks in cubby holes on the back of a se­cret door that leads to the stair­case to the sec­ond floor.

Duck­worth-Schachter said he ex­pects the socks, which re­tail for $45 to $85 — more for cash­mere — to “just fly off the shelves.” Other items that are ex­pected to be pop­u­lar are the elab­o­rate dress­ing gowns, which sell for $2,000 to $4,700, and the sport coats, which have dis­tinc­tive lin­ings and de­tails.

The com­pany was founded by Elis­a­beth New and Sa­muel Ling­wood, co­work­ers who even­tu­ally mar­ried and cre­ated a brand that com­bined their names. New & Ling­wood was es­tab­lished to serve the stu­dents of Eton Col­lege, and soon gained of­fi­cial sta­tus as out­fit­ters to the col­lege. The re­la­tion­ship con­tin­ues to­day and it pro­vides some 140 sport­ing colors to its teams, houses and so­ci­eties.

Duck­worth-Schachter said that un­der its prior owner, a South African busi­ness­man, the re­la­tion­ship with Eton wasn’t evolv­ing. In ad­di­tion, the other brands that New and Ling­wood ac­quired over the years — shoe and boot­maker Poulsen Skone and be­spoke shirt­mak­ers Bowring Arun­del among them — were also dor­mant.

Even­tu­ally, he said, POP Cap­i­tal hopes to rein­tro­duce th­ese la­bels. But for now, the fo­cus is on New & Ling­wood.

Duck­worth said that with the ex­cep­tion of a few years in the Nineties when it whole­saled to Bar­neys New York, New & Ling­wood has not had a pres­ence in the U. S. mar­ket un­til now. “But we know that we have a strong cus­tomer base in the U. S. We chose this lo­ca­tion be­cause we were able to an­a­lyze the zip code and knew that it was a very good one for us.”

Their cus­tomer is in his late 30s to early 60s and “knows enough about men’s wear to know what to look for in qual­ity,” Duck­worth said. He’s ei­ther con­ser­va­tive and seek­ing a lit­tle fun sur­prise in the lin­ings and de­tails, or a true dandy who em­braces “out­landish” fash­ion to make a real state­ment.

That is avail­able both off-the-rack and in made-to-mea­sure at the store. In fact, New & Ling­wood has an en­tire book of tar­tan fab­rics along with oth­ers of col­or­ful lin­ings. Prices for made-to-mea­sure range from $2,400 to $4,000.

Tai­lored cloth­ing is ei­ther sem­i­can­vassed or soft con­structed in English or Ital­ian fab­rics, trousers are half-lined. Shirts have a 12-piece col­lar, French seams, split back yoke and re­in­forced side seam gus­sets. Shoes are hand­made by English and Ital­ian crafts­men, neck­wear is of­fered in silk and is lined, and there are both mid- calf and longer length socks in myr­iad colors and pat­terns.

Duck­worth said New & Ling­wood views Ralph Lau­ren, Paul Smith, Paul Stu­art, Etro and Turn­bull & Asser among its pri­mary com­pe­ti­tion.

In terms of ad­di­tional re­tail stores, Duck­worth-Schachter said he en­vi­sions even­tu­ally adding a “hand­ful” down the line. “But they’ll be in geo­graphic re­gions that we con­sider in­ter­est­ing such as Charleston or Rich­mond, Va., where the dan­di­fied look is im­por­tant,” he said.

The New & Ling­wood store.

Alexan­der Duck­worth, Ray Simp­son and Eli­jah Duck­worth-Schachter.

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