New Vi­sion

The de­signer will make his of­fi­cial de­but at the helm of the com­pany with the spring 2020 col­lec­tion.

WWD Digital Daily - - Front Page - BY ALESSAN­DRA TURRA

Lutz Huelle talks ex­clu­sively to WWD about his plans as the new creative di­rec­tor at Span­ish brand Delpozo.

MI­LAN — “It won't be about rein­vent­ing the brand,” said Lutz Huelle, dur­ing his first in­ter­view as the newly ap­pointed creative di­rec­tor of Madrid-based lux­ury la­bel Delpozo. “The most im­por­tant thing for me is to pre­serve what made Delpozo so won­der­ful.”

As WWD ex­clu­sively re­ported last week, Span­ish com­pany Grupo Per­fumes y Diseño, which has man­aged Delpozo's per­fume li­cense since 1992 and bought the whole fash­ion house in 2011, hired the Ger­man de­signer to suc­ceed for­mer creative di­rec­tor Josep Font, who ex­ited the brand in Septem­ber. Font was tapped in 2012 to re­vi­tal­ize the la­bel, founded by Je­sus Delpozo in 1974.

“We are very ex­cited to start this new chap­ter with Lutz,” said Delpozo gen­eral man­ager Pablo Ba­dia in a tele­phone in­ter­view. “We ba­si­cally chose him be­cause of his ex­pe­ri­ence and skills, which he demon­strated with his own line.”

A Cen­tral Saint Martins grad­u­ate, Huelle cut his teeth at Mai­son Martin Margiela, which he joined in 1995 and where he be­came re­spon­si­ble for the de­vel­op­ment of the knitwear and Ar­ti­sanal lines. In 2000, the Ger­man de­signer es­tab­lished his own brand, called Lutz, which was re­named Lutz Huelle in 2012. A re­cip­i­ent of the pres­ti­gious ANDAM Fash­ion Award in 2001, Huelle, who reg­u­larly shows his col­lec­tion at Paris Fash­ion Week, de­vel­oped a sig­na­ture aes­thetic based on the mix-and-match of out-of-con­text el­e­ments por­tray­ing a va­ri­ety of iden­ti­ties.

“Delpozo is a brand that ex­ists in its own world and peo­ple have an emo­tional con­nec­tion with it,” said Huelle. “What we would like to do is to make it just a lit­tle bit more ap­proach­able, more real and suit­able for the ev­ery­day life, not only for the red car­pet.”

De­vel­op­ing a more “co­her­ent and co­he­sive day­wear wardrobe” is one of the com­pany's big­gest goals, as con­firmed by Ba­dia, who, how­ever, high­lighted that Delpozo won't re­nounce its evening, el­e­gant ap­peal. “This new fo­cus on day­wear will be def­i­nitely key to ex­pand­ing our busi­ness,” the Span­ish ex­ec­u­tive said.

While Huelle will over­see the de­vel­op­ment of the fall 2019 col­lec­tion, which will be un­veiled dur­ing London Fash­ion Week with an in­ti­mate pre­sen­ta­tion, the de­signer's of­fi­cial de­but at the helm of the lux­ury brand will be with the spring 2020 lineup. Ac­cord­ing to Huelle, this is ex­pected to be un­veiled in London with a run­way show.

“I love London, I spent years study­ing and work­ing there, I think it's a great lo­ca­tion for Delpozo,” said Huelle, asked about the pos­si­bil­ity to move the Delpozo show to Paris, the city where the de­signer lives and man­ages his own la­bel.

Ac­cord­ing to Ba­dia, Delpozo is fo­cused on open­ing new mar­kets, in­clud­ing China, as well as re­in­forc­ing its pres­ence in Eu­rope and in the U.S., where the la­bel's col­lec­tions are avail­able at Bergdorf Good­man.

The lux­ury fash­ion house op­er­ates di­rect stores in Madrid and London, as well as a bou­tique at The Dubai Mall in the United Arab Emi­rates opened in col­lab­o­ra­tion with Chal­houb Group and three units in South Korea man­aged by lo­cal part­ner KLH In­ter­na­tional.

Lutz Huelle

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