No Croc

The French firm cited dif­fi­culty sourc­ing skins that match its eth­i­cal stan­dards.

WWD Digital Daily - - Front Page - BY WWD STAFF

Chanel re­veals it plans to stop us­ing ex­otic skins in its col­lec­tions, in­clud­ing fur, fo­cus­ing in­stead on tex­tiles and leather that are prod­ucts of the agri-food busi­ness.

NEW YORK — No more croco for Coco.

On the eve of its pre-fall Métiers d’Arts show here at the Met, Chanel said Mon­day it would “no longer use ex­otic skins in our fu­ture cre­ations.”

“The fu­ture of high-end prod­ucts will come from the know-how of what our ate­lier is able to do,” Bruno Pavlovsky, pres­i­dent of Chanel fashion and pres­i­dent of Chanel SAS, said in an in­ter­view, hint­ing that some ex­am­ples of such crafts­man­ship would be pa­raded in the show, which show­cases the ca­pa­bil­i­ties of the spe­cialty cou­ture ate­liers Chanel owns.

The ex­otic skins in ques­tion in­clude croc­o­dile, lizard, snake and stingray. Pavlovsky noted the list also in­cludes fur, of which Chanel uses very little.

Pavlovsky ex­plained that it was be­com­ing in­creas­ingly dif­fi­cult to source skins that met the house’s qual­ity and eth­i­cal stan­dards, and that it would fo­cus its re­search and de­vel­op­ment on tex­tiles and leathers gen­er­ated by “agri­food” in­dus­tries.

Chanel al­ready uti­lizes tweeds that are not re­ally tweeds at all, but com­pli­cated em­broi­deries that are dif­fi­cult to copy.

The ex­ec­u­tive noted that it would take some time for ex­ist­ing prod­ucts in ex­otic skins to work their way out of its bou­tique distri­bu­tion. He de­clined to pin­point the value of Chanel’s ex­otic skin busi­ness.

Chanel’s cou­turier Karl Lager­feld said he couldn’t re­mem­ber do­ing fur at Chanel, while the founder Gabrielle Chanel might have pos­sessed a pan­ther coat and a sable top. “You look at old col­lec­tions, there was not much fur,” he re­called.

As for ex­otic skins, “there is a prob­lem of sup­ply and that was not Chanel’s busi­ness any­way,” he said. “We did it be­cause it’s in the air, but it’s not an air peo­ple im­posed to us.

It’s a free choice.”

On the eve of its pre-fall Métiers d’Arts show at the Met on Tues­day, Chanel said it will “no longer use ex­otic skins in our fu­ture cre­ations.”

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