A Bunch of Blokes

WWD Digital Daily - - Front Page - Fiona Ma

London Fash­ion Week Men’s saw stand­out shows by Charles Jef­frey, Kent & Cur­wen, Christo­pher Rae­burn and more.

A bon­fire, a com­mo­tion and eerie lights started off Charles Jef­frey’s fan­tas­ti­cal show. Known for his dra­matic per­for­mances, Jef­frey con­tin­ued in his vein of high-volt­age per­for­mances — and gen­der-bend­ing fash­ion. Right on cue, a male model pranced in a black vo­lu­mi­nous dress and fell into a bath­tub filled with books.

“I wanted to com­mu­ni­cate a feel­ing of utopia, and I was in­spired by Peter

Pan’s Lost Boys and ‘Lord of the Flies’,” Jef­frey said. Those ideas trans­lated into se­quin em­bel­lish­ments in the shapes of lizards and al­li­ga­tors on sheer shirts, and scarves in the shape of pigs, while a model re­sem­bling Cap­tain Cook decked out in a bright red, fringed dress and pi­rate’s hat stole the lime­light.

While the show may have been heavy on theatrics and cos­tume-y looks, it was also filled with more com­mer­cial, so­phis­ti­cated pieces.

The de­signer show­cased his tai­lor­ing skills and played with the col­lars on shirts, show­ing some clas­sic styles and oth­ers with ex­ag­ger­ated points. Iron­i­cally, Peter Pan col­lars were nowhere to be found. He in­cor­po­rated his sig­na­ture tar­tan check into a tai­lored slim-fit suit, a midi skirt and an A-line dress, and also in­tro­duced the tar­tan into a beau­ti­ful mo­hair over­coat with sil­ver chain trim.

New to the Lover­boy sphere were streetwear styles such as a green parachute parka, a blue, yel­low and red anorak and a vo­lu­mi­nous puf­fer jacket with white squig­gly pip­ing — and biker shorts to match. Trousers rem­i­nis­cent of a child’s scrib­bles came as a red mo­tif on a cropped fleece pullover, a knee-length waist­coat and a bucket hat on the head of one of Jef­frey’s Lost Boys. —

Kent & Cur­wen

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