Kent & Cur­wen

WWD Digital Daily - - The Reviews - — Sa­man­tha Conti

This col­lec­tion has been evolv­ing rapidly, and in mul­ti­ple direc­tions, un­der cre­ative di­rec­tor Daniel Kearns, who has a knack for bal­anc­ing the sporty with the so­phis­ti­cated. For fall, he took the col­lec­tion into more sar­to­rial ter­ri­tory — and sent out fe­male mod­els for the first time — in a show that took place at an Arts and Crafts man­sion over­look­ing the Thames.

Kearns de­scribed his col­lec­tion as “sar­to­rial streetwear,” and said he looked to the male and fe­male co­founders, Eric Kent and Dorothy Cur­wen, who founded Kent & Cur­wen in 1926, as his muses.

His aim, he said, was to make the pieces ac­ces­si­ble and wear­able across gen­ders and to re­spond to the women post­ing pic­tures of them­selves wear­ing Kent & Cur­wen cloth­ing.

The re­sult was a mix of mil­i­tary tai­lor­ing and loose-fit­ting, col­or­ful knits and sporty ref­er­ences, all done with Kearns’ light touch. He also played around with the brand’s rose logo, turn­ing it into a Vel­cro patch on a sweater, spin­ning it from gold bul­lion or cre­at­ing it as a to­neon-tone de­tail.

Star pieces in­cluded the lan­guid, lightweight knit­ted rugby shirt worn by one of the women mod­els and the long and short mil­i­tary coats in olive, navy and gray-blue with shiny gold but­tons. A fuzzy, elec­tric blue mo­hair coat with a blurry check pat­tern did much to brighten up Sun­day’s gray skies.

Boxy sweaters, some with trompe l’oeil patches and oth­ers with mag­ni­fied ar­gyle pat­terns also stood out, as did the zipfront jack­ets with jockey-style di­a­mond mo­tifs large and small.

Kearns also showed off the Kent & Cur­wen col­lab­o­ra­tion with the BBC TV crime drama “Peaky Blin­ders,” a col­lec­tion he filled with Twen­ties-in­spired sil­hou­ettes such as a feath­er­weight gray frock coat and Kent & Cur­wen’s sig­na­ture peg trousers, which should suit ruf­fi­ans and gen­tle­men alike.

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