John Lawrence Sul­li­van

WWD Digital Daily - - The Reviews - Natalie Theo­dosi

In a dark tun­nel in East London, de­signer Arashi Yana­gawa brought punk and gothic rock alive again.

As the un­der­ground band Wild Daugh­ter per­formed cen­ter stage, Yana­gawa de­liv­ered a col­lec­tion that let him revel in his on­go­ing ob­ses­sion with mu­sic and sub­cul­ture, filled with Nineties-in­spired punk and rock ref­er­ences.

There was an­i­mal print and leather ga­lore: Slim snake­skin pants were lay­ered un­der a leop­ard-print tu­nic; trench coats came in glossy taupe or black leather; clas­sic tai­lored suits were paired with corsets or see-through mesh tops, and leather jack­ets fea­tured metal fring­ing.

Else­where, Yana­gawa piled on the pat­terns and tex­ture, lay­er­ing snake and leop­ard-print sep­a­rates with check coats or mix­ing matte and glossy leathers.

The rock star ref­er­ences and wet-hair, di­sheveled look of the mod­els had a whiff of Hedi Sli­mane and felt a lit­tle too nostal­gic of a time long gone.

But Yana­gawa’s ex­pert tai­lor­ing, as in a range of roomy, big-shoul­dered coats in her­itage fab­rics, added a more con­tem­po­rary spin — and showed that he has the po­ten­tial to take his de­signs in new, more cur­rent direc­tions. —

John Lawrence Sul­li­van

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