Bar­banera Makes Ready-to-Wear De­but

Es­tab­lished in 2011 as a footwear brand, the la­bel is be­ing un­veiled at Mi­lan Fash­ion Week with a col­lec­tion of re­vis­ited men’s sta­ples.

WWD Digital Daily - - News - BY ALESSAN­DRA TURRA

The Ital­ian pi­rates of fash­ion are set­ting sail on a new ad­ven­ture.

Sergio and Se­bas­tiano Guardì, along with their busi­ness part­ner Alessan­dro Pagli­acci, are kick­ing off a new chap­ter in the story of Bar­banera, the brand they es­tab­lished in 2011.

The la­bel, which bears the name of leg­endary Bri­tish pi­rate Black­beard, on Sun­day will host its first of­fi­cial pre­sen­ta­tion at Mi­lan Fash­ion Week, where it will not only show­case to press and buy­ers its new footwear styles, but also its first full col­lec­tion of ready-to-wear.

“At a cer­tain point, we re­al­ized that clients were in­ter­ested in what we were wear­ing, in our own idea of men's wear, our style,” ex­plained Sergio Guardì, who over­sees de­sign and pro­duc­tion. “Since our goal has al­ways been to cre­ate a lifestyle brand, we ac­tu­ally de­cided to give our­selves a chance and try to do the first men's wear pieces.”

Last year, Bar­banera de­liv­ered a few shirts and denim pants re­flect­ing the same style as its shoes, which com­bine an au­then­tic Ital­ian aes­thetic with coun­try, Western and Bri­tish in­flu­ences.

“We have a pi­rat­i­cal ap­proach to fash­ion,” Guardì said. “We of­fer a new take on clas­sic men's wear, but as a young brand with no her­itage, we have a cer­tain creative free­dom en­abling us to ex­plore dif­fer­ent ways and chan­nel a va­ri­ety of in­spi­ra­tions.”

Deep re­search into fab­ri­ca­tions and spe­cial de­tails de­fines the first Bar­banera men's wear col­lec­tion, ac­cord­ing to Guardì, who sourced ma­te­ri­als from var­i­ous parts of the world, rang­ing from Ja­pan for Kuroki's sel­vage denim to Texas for a range of spe­cial me­tal­lic but­tons. The com­pany also teamed with the old­est Ital­ian lux­ury tex­tile com­pany, Vi­tale Bar­beris Canon­ico, for high- end tra­di­tional fab­rics, which the brand “out­ra­geously” ma­nip­u­lated to ob­tain ex­clu­sive ef­fects. “For ex­am­ple, we felted a su­perfine wool,” Guardì ex­plained, while Ja­panese denim was bleached and stonewashed.

De­scrib­ing the col­lec­tion as a “wardrobe of col­lectible pieces,” Guardì stressed that the brand didn't try to hit ma­jor trends, but ac­tu­ally fo­cused on the def­i­ni­tion of a pe­cu­liar, rec­og­niz­able style, for a “lifestyle ap­proach.”

The col­lec­tion will in­clude re­vis­ited sta­ple pieces, in­clud­ing a Western shirt, which is re­fit­ted with a slim­mer sil­hou­ette; an­other shirt with a Chi­nese col­lar; three jeans styles; vel­vet and pin­striped wool pants; a denim trucker jacket with a shear­ling col­lar and an em­broi­dered patch stitched on the in­side pocket, as well as a mil­i­tary coat and vests.

Ac­cord­ing to Guardì, the col­lec­tion's prices are in line with the footwear line, which for the fall sea­son will be ex­panded to in­clude styles such as an en­gi­neer boot with two buck­les. For ex­am­ple, jeans re­tail around 260 eu­ros and shirts go from 190 eu­ros to 230 eu­ros.

The dis­tri­bu­tion of the col­lec­tion will be man­aged di­rectly by the com­pany, which in the first few years mainly re­lied on the whole­sale busi­ness — es­pe­cially in Ja­pan and the U.S., the brand's big­gest mar­kets — but is now fo­cus­ing on a di­rectto-con­sumer ap­proach. “The sales of our online stores are grow­ing and by the end of 2019 we are launch­ing a new web site,” said Guardì.

Items from the Bar­banera men’swear col­lec­tion.

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