Buyers Cite Strong Trends In Milan
In outerwear and tailoring, coats, long puffers, parkas and softer suits appealed to retailers.
MILAN — As Mario Grauso, president of Holt Renfrew, put it, men can say goodbye to a small coat closet.
In Milan, brands showed terrific outerwear pieces that appealed to retailers, from coats to bomber jackets, long puffers and parkas. In sync with London’s runways, there was a shift toward tailoring, now developed in softer and deconstructed ways. Textures were key and animal prints were a must, as well as corduroy.
Retailers were happy with what they saw and several said their fall budgets are up in Milan. Prada and Fendi left a mark, as did Ermenegildo Zegna and its show at the grand Central Station.
Here, retailers talk about some of the Milan highlights.
BRUCE PASK Men’s wear fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS: Tom Ford presented a beautiful, chic, gentlemanly collection that was buttoned up and exactly the right mood. I really liked the Prada show, with a great combination of sartorial and utility in her [Miuccia Prada's] heavily military-influenced collection, including great interpretations of the house's signature nylon. Neil Barrett presented a terrific 20th-anniversary collection filled with great novelty and exciting statement pieces that felt very new. Kiton always delivers the most luxurious and still surprising tailored and sportswear collections perfect for our customer, and their new printed vicuña was quite extraordinary. TOP TRENDS: This more gentlemanly mood with a heavy English influence continues, with traditional tweeds and tailored topcoats looking great, especially when worn over weekend wear; I like that juxtaposition. Camel continues to be a dominant color story, great in outerwear, suedes and knitwear. Texture is key, with great corduroy pieces from Brunello Cucinelli and Massimo Alba, plush velvets from a rich Brioni collection, and suedes and shearlings are the weekend outerwear of choice seen everywhere. There is also a predominance of shorter blouson-style outerwear and bomber jackets, with great examples seen at the rather epic Ermenegildo Zegna show. There has been a strong evening component throughout the shows, which is a category that has been performing very well given the expanding range on offer: velvets, jacquards, prints. Tom Ford has an extraordinary evening program with immediately iconic marble-ized evening jackets. There is still a strong deconstruction and active focus in tailoring seen in a luxurious way at KNT and Kiton and more technical fabrications in general are informing activeinspired sportswear, which is still a big presence.
MUST- HAVE ITEM: A tailored topcoat in any English-influenced glen plaid or houndstooth check. Great when worn over tailoring but looks especially fresh with denim and a sweater.
BEST VENUE: Without a question, Ermenegildo Zegna's epic takeover of the Stazione Centrale was extraordinary, with an amazing use of the space to showcase Alessandro Sartori's innovative collection.
MARIO GRAUSO
President, Holt Renfrew
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
One of the best seasons ever at Prada. Both men's and women's looks all seemed to be musthaves, from the accessories to the ready-to-wear — it made you want everything. Other standouts were Bottega
Veneta and Brunello Cucinelli.
TOP TRENDS:
Military everything; themed coats at Prada, Zegna and Cucinelli; chunky, mixed-media knits that can be worn as outerwear; heavy outerwear tucked into pants and belted; novelty dinner jackets in unusual colors and fabrics — frequently beaded; bags, bags, bags — layered, attached, ornamented, practical, not practical and worn all over your body: On your back, on your waist, around the neck; heavy, heavy soled shoes.
MUST- HAVE ITEM: A military coat from Prada: Prada beaded broadcloth men's shirt (and who wouldn't want to match Gigi Hadid's dress); camel dinner jacket from Cucinelli; gray, long collarless puffer at Zegna; Fendi man purse; any of the printed dinner jackets from Tom Ford. BEST VENUE: Zegna at the Milan train station forcing us to utilize our outerwear.
SAY BYE- BYE TO:
A small coat closet.
IS YOUR OPEN-TO- BUY UP OR STABLE?: Stable.
TOM KALENDERIAN Executive vice president, general merchandise manager men’s/children’s/home, Barneys New York
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
The Prada show was a knockout; best show replete with Millennial moments to please this generation. Another high point: Fendi Men's was great; an eclectic mix from the sophisticated color palette of burgundy, brown and taupe shot with metallics to the playful printed puffers.
TOP TRENDS: Milan style for fall 2019 is all about plush fabrics in rich shades of burgundy, copper, petrol blue and gunmetal. All of which works well for the office today or leisure time.
MUST- HAVE ITEM: The greatcoat in a big plaid or plush fabric.
BEST VENUE: No one packed a room better than the Neapolitan designers. Kiton and Isaia reminded us of the importance of relationships; their innate genuine hospitality makes their style irresistible.
TALENT SCOUTING ( HOT NEW BRANDS): Daniel Lee's Bottega Veneta is one of the chicest, modern collections I've seen. I was blown away from both the minimal understated simplicity of his designs as well as the incredible attention to detail of the artisanal workmanship of these beautiful clothes and accessories.
IS YOUR OPEN-TO- BUY UP OR STABLE? We are encouraged to find growth with some of the fresh ideas coming out of Milan.
KAREN VERNET Men fashion director and e-business development director at Printemps:
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
Prada and Versace.
TOP TRENDS: The comeback of the tailoring spirit! Streetwear is still present but less “omnipresent.” Colors: mix of black and flashy colors.
MUST- HAVE ITEMS: Reinterpreted outerwear; transparent materials; creative pants; panthère/animal print; vinyl, glossy and colorful shoes; synthetic fur; cocoon knitwear; belts.
BEST VENUE: Sunnei (it is not the first show at all but this season, the brand has made a big step forward and is more mature).
TALENT SCOUTING ( HOT NEW
BRANDS): Marni (not a new brand but a new sound, turn, and maturity in the collection).
IS YOUR OPEN-TO- BUY UP OR STABLE? Increase[d].
RICCARDO TORTATO Fashion director eCommerce at Tsum.ru
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
Zegna Couture. Best location and best show. I went to re-see the collection in the showroom and the product has so many interesting components. Some items are made from 100 percent recycled cashmere and PEC. Leather is mixed with cashmere in some suits. The shapes are amazing and Alessandro Sartori represents now the perfect mix between style, quality and innovation. Bravo! The second best show was Versace. Super energy and super powerful.
Loved the Ford collaboration.
TOP TRENDS: No streetwear; yes, trendy fashionable product. MUST- HAVE ITEM: Santoni's croco shoes and lumberjack boots.
BEST VENUE: Central train station in Milan for Zegna Couture.
SAY BYE- BYE TO: Oversize.
IS YOUR OPEN-TO- BUY UP, DOWN, OR STABLE? Up.
FIONA FIRTH
Buying director at Mr Porter
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
Prada, Aspesi and Tom Ford.
TOP TRENDS: Tailoring and tailoring fabrics, wide silhouette trousers, combat trousers, padded coats.
MUST- HAVE ITEM: A new suit. BEST VENUE: Zegna at the Milano Centrale train station and Prada at Fondazione Prada Milano. TALENT SCOUTING ( HOT NEW BRANDS): I'm looking forward to the Paris shows where we expect to see a lot of newness.
JUSTIN BERKOWITZ Bloomingdale’s mens fashion director
BEST COLLECTIONS:
This season, it felt like Francesco Risso found his groove at Marni. He hit the trends, but made them feel distinct to the brand. He produced what may be my favorite coat thus far this season — the camel singlebreasted with the leopard trim. Neil Barrett's 20th anniversary show was quite excellent. What felt like a departure from his tendency toward more minimal rigor, this collection had a bevy of pattern and felt more innately personal; it incorporated both Neil's English heritage and his forward-thinking design aesthetic. Kiton's presentation was also a standout. Their focus on development is unparalleled, especially their experimentation with soft construction and devotion to fabric innovation.
Not to mention their attention to detail: They went so far as to hand paint the decorative potted plants in the showroom to ensure they had the correct autumnal hues on the leaves. TOP TRENDS: It's not often you see a trend occupy both designer fashion and the tailored clothing market, but it's happening now: British heritage patterns are everywhere.
They're reinvented through soft construction in the tailored market, fluid and more volumefocused tailoring in the designer market, and incorporated into technical wools in some outerwear. The second big one is animal print. Leopard, zebra, and cheetah were represented in almost every runway show. It felt freshest when introduced as a trim or a detail (like at Marni) or applied in a new way (like at Neil Barrett or MSGM). Also feeling fresh is the cargo pant. Seeing them both in technical fabrics and in natural fibers, cotton and wool. We're excited about this silhouette returning; it's an innately familiar look for the customer but is updated and tweaked in silhouette and with interesting detailing.
MUST- HAVE ITEM: A lug sole shoe. We're beginning to see the chunky sneaker evolve into the chunky shoe and the chunky boot. BEST VENUE: The location of the Sunnei show, the Palazzo del Ghiaccio. I've attended shows there in the past but typically the windows and the clerestory are covered over. At the Sunnei show, they were not — it allowed for lovely afternoon light.
SAY BYE- BYE TO: The head-totoe look. One of my takeaways from the shows was styling that felt quite personal, and still wearable. The layering of seemingly disparate elements into single looks at shows like Marni, Neil Barrett and Prada pointed to this personalization of style. So did a number of the presentations at the tailoring houses, where an understanding of how to put together an unexpected mix was paramount. TALENT SCOUTING ( HOT
NEW BRANDS): Barbanera's presentation of their first collection of clothing was incredibly charming; the attention to detail and fabric research were immediately apparent.
SIMON LONGLAND General merchandise manager for men’s wear and sports at Harrods
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
This season, I loved Prada, an exceptionally strong show.
Full of sleek tailoring with soft military references, bold knits contrasting against the coolest of black staples. Ermenegildo Zegna's rich color palette is the wardrobe of the autumn. Green stole the show as the “new gray,” suitably applied to garments with military features of strapping and boxed pockets. I loved the ‘new-gen' suit of a matching formal jog pant and blouson, accessorized with a tie in only a way that Zegna can.
TOP TRENDS: Khaki has been the most consistent color so far and feeds perfectly off the continually prominent utility trend — could this be the new gray? Alessandro Sartori seems to think so and I am happy to oblige! Corduroy is the fabric of the season after a few absent collections. An incredibly wearable fabric mostly used on rich palettes of ivory, burgundy and camel. Statement coats dominated, particularly the overcoat, long puffers and parkas. They have been updated with new fabrics such as vinyl, satin and the teddy. Black suits have made their mark and not just in a super-formal way, but in an everyday style, too. Seen across pretty much every show from classic sartorial brands to emerging designers. Khaki and the various hues within green is the color of autumn-winter
‘19. If you don't have a pair of chunky boots in your wardrobe, you'll be missing out — prominent at all the shows from Marcelo Burlon and Ermenegildo Zegna to Prada. Animal prints, in particular leopard, have had a revival within men's wear. Neil Barrett took this to a grungier level, while Marcelo Burlon played with the print in a very Californian way.
MUST- HAVE ITEM: For me, it is more of a ‘must-have look' and this would be a black suit worn with big boots, layered with a statement coat.
BEST VENUE: Ermenegildo
Zegna at the Milano Centrale — the largest train station in Europe. One of the best things about the shows (apart from the collections) is finding these amazing venues that you would never normally visit and this was a cavernous space with a spectacular interior.
SAY BYE- BYE TO: The simple sweatshirt has been conspicuous by its absence. Where it features, it has been reworked and elevated by working with different materials and techniques.
FEDERICA MONTELLI
Head of fashion, Rinascente
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS: Prada was the standout collection for me, followed by Fendi and Marni.
TOP TRENDS: Most collections presented a new take on sartorial, with a relaxed, easy attitude. Classic is cool and directional. Think of suits that are either roomy and enriched by utilitarian details (Zegna) or perfectly polished black suits, with short and slightly boxy blazers (Prada, No. 21). A slight military inspiration, sometimes with an “aviator” feel with fur collars and hats. The sustainability theme was played out more and more by brands like Etro and Zegna.
MUST-HAVE ITEM: Prada's chunky derby in high-shine leather, and Fendi's nylon men's “Baguette” bag. One of the many leopardprint fur (or fake fur) coats that have been omnipresent on the runways, from Marni to MSGM to Neil Barrett, to No. 21. A black leather pant, preferably high-shine (No. 21) or buttersoft nappa in any autumn hue (Ermenegildo Zegna).
BEST VENUE: Ermenegildo Zegna always organizes its shows in show-stopping locations, this time it was Stazione Centrale, highlighting the utilitarian sartorial theme.
TALENT SCOUTING ( HOT NEW BRANDS): M1192, which we have already from fall-winter ‘18, was a confirmation with its Britinspired collection. Danilo Paura is an emerging Italian brand that we wish to showcase from fallwinter ‘19.
IS YOUR OPEN-TO- BUY UP OR STABLE? Our open-to-buy is up as men's is a constantly growing category, both in readyto-wear and accessories. We are increasing square meters and developing several new projects, namely expanding our Luxury Designers Area in Milan and our Shoe Areas in both Milan and Florence. We are also planning special projects related to outdoor and winter-gear.
JOSH PESKOWITZ Fashion director men’s, Moda Operandi
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
Massimo Alba, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Prada.
TOP TRENDS: Corduroy in wide wales, warm rust tones and browns, new color pops, emerald green, both bright yellow and mustard, orange and auburn, very wide-leg trousers.
MUST- HAVE ITEM: Raglanshoulder, oversize overcoat in a men's wear-inspired textured fabric. BEST VENUE: Prada Foundation.
SAY BYE- BYE TO: Denim (only for a minute, I'm sure). TALENT SCOUTING ( HOT NEW BRANDS): Federico Curradi.
LEE GOLDUP Men’s wear buyer, Browns Fashion
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
Bed J.W. Ford, Marni, Sunnei and Prada.
TOP TRENDS: I saw three strong trends with the most consistent one being tailoring — it's definitely coming back, which we saw from a number of brands. The second one is chunky-soled shoes as opposed to sneakers as well as longer-length, belowthe-knee coats.
MUST- HAVE ITEM: Prada has got me once again — the must-have item is their sport (aka Linea Rossa) tech shirt and pants.
BEST VENUE: The Prada venue was incredible — the foam seating and runway lit beautifully with the extralarge lightbulbs. The music for the show was also amazing and gave it such an energy.
Followed closely by Sunnei, who once again chose an epic venue to host their latest show.
SAY BYE- BYE TO: Even if it is super comfortable to wear, oversized outerwear and oversized in general are on the out.
TALENT SCOUTING ( HOT NEW
BRANDS): Not a new brand, but a fairly unknown one is Bed J.W. Ford. We've been a stockist for a few seasons, however, it was great having them on the Milan Fashion Week calendar. The collection and the show were both very strong.
IS YOUR OPEN-TO- BUY UP OR STABLE?: Our open-to-buy is up after a very successful AW18 season and we are so looking forward to this new season.
FRANCESCO GALLI
Folli Follie and TheDoubleF.com chief executive officer
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
Prada.
TOP TRENDS: Suits, uniforms,
clean outfits.
MUST- HAVE ITEM: Coat in every fabric and fit. SAY BYE- BYE TO: Graphics.
TALENT SCOUTING ( HOT NEW BRANDS): Magliano, Danilo
Paura. IS YOUR OPEN-TO- BUY UP OR STABLE? Up.
CARMEL IMELDA WALSH
Stefania Mode art director
FAVORITE COLLECTIONS:
Marni, Sunnei, Prada.
TOP TRENDS: The men's waistline, PVC trenches, knitwear tracksuits, teddy bear fleece sweaters.
MUST- HAVE ITEM:
Versace's ostrich-feathertrimmed suit jackets.
BEST VENUE: Prada Foundation is my favorite.
SAY BYE- BYE TO: Logo overload.
TALENT SCOUTING ( HOT NEW BRANDS): M1992.
IS YOUR OPEN-TO- BUY UP OR STABLE?:
We are stable overall. ■