Turn Back Time
Spring 2020
Miuccia Prada took her men’s spring 2020 show to the futuristic city of Shanghai for a one-time-only event. But the collection shown Thursday was heavy on Eighties’ references, including prints of lo-tech products like cassette tapes and VCRs, like those seen here.
The 80,000-ton warehouse that is the Minsheng Wharf in Shanghai was bathed in a blue light and an Eighties synth-filled soundscape was beating when Prada’s new China ambassador, the singer Cai Xukun, swaggered into the space, the last to claim his show seat.
It was only a few days ago that the Italian house had revealed the 20-year- old pop star as its first China spokesperson. Prada has been slower than others on the embrace of Gen Z famous faces, but the company seemed to be making up for lost time with laser-like focus with the appointment of Cai and an elaborate men’s event in Shanghai on Thursday night for the presentation of the brand’s spring 2020 collection, skipping Milan Fashion Week to do so.
Miuccia Prada’s collection itself was about youthful classics done with new proportions. Shirts had roomy pockets and pouches, the shoes were chunky, and a few looks had the models wearing long untucked polo shirts under light blazers. Continuing the Eighties vibe, symbols of lo-fi and outmoded tech such as cassette tapes and chunky video cameras featured as patches or prints. The palette ran from a mix of color-blocked pastels against khaki and black.
Postshow, the music artist Frank Ocean and Cai both headed to greet Miuccia
Prada. Cai had just finished his first North American tour and was just about to turn his attention back to planning concerts in China toward the end of the year.
“The whole tour was amazing. I got to meet all the fans around the world,” Cai said.
Might Prada work with a celebrity face in China for women’s soon to further its renewed push? A quick browse at the front row showed actresses Deng Enxi, Zeng Meihuizi and Guan Xiaotong, among others.
“We have so many already, I don’t know,” said Prada. “It’s a subject that is under discussion.”
The designer was happy to share her first memories of China, however.
“I was 25 years old, in the late Seventies,” she said. “The difference, of course, is huge. Now it’s so modern but it’s so funny, when you go back to Italy, it’s like you go back to medieval times.”
The crowd then settled into dinner, which was an immersive experience of sorts. Throughout the meal, performers appeared unannounced. Seven acts, including contortionists, dancers who played with mirrored reflections and light, and the two-time Grammy-Award-winning Dana Leong on the electric cello took the stages around the hall, before finally, Craig Richards and Ben UFO closed out the evening in the club space. — Tiffany Ap
Private Policy
Private Policy returned to New York with a collection that centered around unity.
Designers Siying Qu and Haoran Li held two shows in London for their spring and fall collections in partnership with GQ, but returned to their home base to show their spring collection, which was partly inspired by the Stonewall riots.
Making note of the 50th anniversary of the uprising, Qu said before the show that community is a very important theme for the collection and believes people should channel the feeling and energy of protesters that join together for a greater cause.
“I feel that globally and in America there is tension politically and socially,” said Qu. “I feel that people are quick to stand on one side instead of thinking about how we can all gather together and work on the same issues that are affecting both sides, like climate change or social issues. There are still ongoing challenges; why don’t we look back and take that spirit of Stonewall and use it for today for the issues right now?”
Qu and Li paid homage to Stonewall with rainbow gradient shirts and dresses featuring their new PXL slanted checker pattern that launched on Tuesday and feather details on hoodies, dresses and harnesses. The new check pattern the duo intends to make their signature was prevalent in the collection on numerous shirts, biker shorts, bikini tops, mesh turtlenecks and knits and was the lining for black and olive jackets.
“This pattern symbolizes our brand,” Qu explained. “We want to develop the pattern to be our iconic element and also want to show people how the pattern translates on different forms. We want to do that on the upcoming collections as well.”
The duo put a streetwear spin on military pieces, such as double-front pocket shirts and cargo pants and parkas that sport 3-D pockets, and gave sporty jackets an edge with long chain accessories and details. Li added that the brand partnered with an Italian mill to source 100 percent biodegradable fabrics and recycled nylon and polyester for the collection. — Obi Anyanwu
Parke & Ronen
Parke & Ronen managed to find a hidden gem of a space on the West Side of Manhattan, one that was apropos for the launch of its resort collection of swimwear and casual lifestyle apparel.
The duo took over the outdoor pool deck at the Mercedes Club to shoot a video and still images of the collection during the day and invited friends and industry figures to a presentation that evening.
“You miss the drama of the moment, but we wanted to do a live event for our audience and customers that was more relaxed and fun,” said Parke Lutter, who created the collection 22 years ago with his partner Ronen Jehezkel. So instead of producing a traditional runway show, they opted for a format that allowed them to capture content for their web site and store and show off the collection at the same time.
It also gave them the opportunity to unveil their Pride capsule collection, a see-now-buy-now assortment of sequined shorts and sweatshirts, paint-splattered tank tops and overshirts with “Pure Gold” emblazoned on them that went on sale immediately following the event.
The regular resort collection featured the brand’s signature swimwear in a variety of lengths and abstract and conceptual patterns, as well as complementary après- swim cover-ups that included an assortment of lightweight patterned sweaters, and colorful shirts with matching shorts. There was even a velveteen Ultrasuede stretch short and hoodie with satin details that capped off the leisurely mood.
“We are excited to test this new approach to fashion week as we have long wanted to experiment with different formats to allow us to connect more intimately with our audience, while also producing more engaging content,”
Lutter said. “Since we have been ardent supporters of NYFW: Men’s since Day
One, we are indeed looking forward to finding new ways to continue to be a part of that, and in the meantime excited to try a new model.” — Jean E. Palmieri
Linder
For the first collection for the 2020s, Linder designer Kirk Millar offered up a stripped-down and minimalistic lineup with a big dose of Ivy League preppy.
“I wanted to do a very small presentation this season,” he said. “This is a new decade, I’m down with overstyling. This is very cool and simple.”
An intentionally ill-fitting white boxy polo with “Trophy Husband” as a slogan — a message he also emblazoned on colorful speedo bikinis — set the tone for the subversive preppy mood. The same concept was applied to reinvented classics such as a stripped-down cricket sweater and hoodie, and vintage-inspired sport stripes on blazers and hoodies.
Much of the collection centered around an equestrian theme that appeared as prints in spandex tops and feminine scarves tied around the neck and head in some of the looks. Millar also teamed up with Breton to reinvent the brand’s classic striped shirt, which he reinterpreted as a sleeveless tank accented with horseshow ribbons. The horse reference was intended to evoke the symbol of a free spirit and the leisure sport of choice for much of the upper class.
While the concept of upper- class dressing might not feel so inclusive, Millar’s execution and point of view make the collection feel more democratic. Ditto for the price points that he brought down this season with the Trophy Husband polo retailing for around $150 and the scarves around $125. “I wanted to have the price points line with my audience,” he said.
— Alex Badia