Lanvin
For Bruno Sialelli’s official men’s wear debut for Lanvin, his playful and youthful collection was full of tongue-in-cheek nods to leisurewear, with the show’s pool venue underscoring the escapist mood.
“I think we all need a holiday — I love my job, but holidays are the best moments of our lives,” the designer said backstage. “Traveling is part of the vocabulary of the house, Jeanne Lanvin got a lot of her inspiration from the trips she made — fabrics, things.”
Sprinkling in maritime influences here, a pinch of Jean Cocteau and Barbar there, the wardrobe went from tailoring with hand-painted wave motifs running down the sleeves and legs to cropped tobaccohued toggled Windbreakers. There were also old-school checked wool jackets with sailor-style collars, cherry motif T-shirts and silky logo caftans. Washes added a sun-kissed feel to looks.
Delicate silver ball embroideries trimming suits and peppering shirts pointed to the bohemian Seventies era.
But naive charm prevailed via knits embellished with rows of cloudy sheep, twinsets in matching seaside scapes and vacation-inspired trinkets, including whistle and mermaid necklaces, the latter inspired by an object in Jeanne Lanvin’s office. Bags resembled ice coolers.
The women’s pre-collection looks mirrored the men’s in terms of the inspirations, fabrics and bold summery colors, as in a belted shirtdress in a paisley print, or dresses in deconstructed nautical stripes.
The influence of Sialelli’s former workplace, Loewe, could still be felt, but so could his growing sense of confidence in his new role as he introduces a new language to the house. After a bumpy start, the enthusiastic reception from the audience should prove an ego boost.