WWD Digital Daily

Junya Watanabe

- — Katya Foreman

Presented in the cloister of Paris’ Abbaye royal du Val-de-Grâce, sun streaming through the arches, the civilized collection focused on relaxed, summery, robust wardrobe men’s staples.

The casual-dapper mood telegraphe­d a refined, masculine lifestyle with the message underscore­d by mentions of Junya Watanabe’s favorite addresses shared on looks — think cult London restaurant St. John, whose name adorned a workwear jacket, worn with a cream denim pant with a huge rolled-up cuff; the Amsterdam Tulip Museum, and the London bookshop MagCulture.

The sense of community extended to Watanabe’s usual string of collaborat­ions weaving through the collection, with logos by everything from Canada Goose to Levi’s and Carhartt subtly peppering pieces.

The themes included fine lines of constructi­on seams used as patterns on jackets, leading to heavy, more structured patchworks that, along with the rumpled, natural fabrics and soft pants — in washed fabrics and worn rolled up — channeled a vagabond vibe.

Another was the great hybrid outerwear pieces that morphed generic tailoring, military and casual men’s staples. They went from a denim jacket fused with a black raincoat to a khaki safari vest with patch pockets set into a gray tailored coat, giving a graphic, two-in-one, mixedmessa­ge edge.

 ??  ?? Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States