WWD Digital Daily

Growing Pains

Despite political unrest in Hong Kong, the company improved on total sales with the addition of Versace.

- BY KELLIE ELL

Michael Kors brand and Hong Kong unrest weigh on Capri Holdings.

Revenues are up at Capri Holdings Ltd. but headwinds continue with the Michael Kors brand and ongoing political conflict in Hong Kong.

The fashion group, which is also home to Versace and Jimmy Choo, delivered mixed results in its most recent quarter ending Sept. 28.

Total sales grew 15.1 percent to $1.4 billion, compared with $1.25 billion the same time last year thanks to the addition of Versace, which was purchased in December 2018. Meanwhile, total income fell to just $73 million, down from $138 million a year earlier.

By brand, revenues at Versace were $228 million. Revenues at Jimmy Choo rose 7.8 percent to $125 million, up from $116 million the same time last year. But sales at Michael Kors, the company's largest brand, fell to $1.08 billion, down from $1.13 billion last year.

Even so, John D. Idol, Capri Holdings' chairman and chief executive officer, said revenues at Michael Kors were in line with expectatio­ns, returning to positive same- store sales.

“We are successful­ly executing against [Michael Kors'] reposition­ing efforts to attract and engage Millennial­s and Generation Z consumers with Michael's optimistic design vision and energetic marketing,” Idol said on Wednesday morning's conference call with analysts.

He added that earnings across the company fell because of higher operating expenses and the protests in Hong Kong — an issue that has affected a number of internatio­nal retailers, including Coach and Kate Spade parent Tapestry.

“For fiscal 2020, we remain focused on executing on our strategic growth initiative­s and are reiteratin­g our guidance for revenue of approximat­ely $5.8 billion and adjusted earnings per share of approximat­ely $4.95,” Idol said.

“From a longer-term perspectiv­e, we are encouraged with the progress we are making developing our global fashion luxury group,” Idol continued. “The integratio­n of Versace is going smoothly, and Jimmy Choo continues to advance its strategic initiative­s. Additional­ly, the Michael Kors brand reposition­ing efforts are resonating with customers.

With continued focus on execution and investment to support our growth plans, we are confident that Capri Holdings remains on track to grow revenue to $8 billion over time and deliver multiple years of earnings growth.”

Capri is said to be on the hunt for a new ceo to lead the Michael Kors brand. ( Jonathan Akeroyd leads the Versace brand as ceo and Pierre Denis is ceo of Jimmy Choo.) On Wednesday, representa­tives from Capri declined to comment on speculatio­n that Capri is in search of a new ceo for the Michael Kors brand.

On the conference call, Idol added that — across the board — the consumer in North America is “relatively healthy.” Other bright spots include active footwear, which was a growth driver across all three brands, especially at Versace with the bestsellin­g Chain Reaction collection.

The Versace brand, in particular, benefited from increased brand awareness after the spring 2020 runway show during Milan Fashion Week, in which Jennifer Lopez closed the show with the icon green and teal plunging dress that she debuted at the Grammy Awards in 2000.

“Versace's continued momentum was driven by the positive response to Donatella's fall collection,” Idol said on the conference call. “Customers were particular­ly enthusiast­ic about our new seasonal offerings which featured vivid furs, jewels and bright shoes that epitomize Versace's rock ‘n' roll legacy.”

Still, Idol conceded that the ongoing protests in Hong Kong have has “a material impact” on the Versace business in the region.

“We've got a very cautious view of how we're planning the greater China business in total for Versace for the balance of the year. I think we're going to see recovery from the T-shirt situation more in the fourth quarter and probably the first quarter of next year,” Idol said on the call, referring to the incident earlier this year in which some brands — including Versace — were criticized for listing Hong Kong as its country on merchandis­e, offending Chinese sovereignt­y in the process.

“But we've taken a very, very conservati­ve point of view across the whole company for Hong Kong while we hope that the situation gets resolved,” Idol continued, but added, “We don't see any end in sight. We don't know what that means.”

Shares of Capri Holdings, which are down nearly 40 percent year-over-year, fell more than 4 percent during Wednesday's trading session, closing down 0.91 percent to $33.78 a piece.

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 ??  ?? A look from the Michael
Kors Collection fall campaign, photograph­ed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.
A look from the Michael Kors Collection fall campaign, photograph­ed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.

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