WWD Digital Daily

Modes Embraces Flexibilit­y Personaliz­ation for Milan Flagship

- BY ALESSANDRA TURRA

The Italian luxury retailer opened a 3,768-square-foot space on Milan’s residentia­l Piazza Risorgimen­to.

MILAN — When Italian retailer Stefania Mode — founded in Trapani, Sicily, in

1971 — this year decided to go through a re-branding exercise to expand its internatio­nal appeal, it just played with its name, adding the S of Stefania to the word Mode. The result was Modes, the new name of Aldo Carpinteri’s fashion company, which has sales of more than 100 million euros.

“It also happened that ‘modes’ are in the music world different types of scales, which differenti­ate because of at least one altered note,” said Carpinteri. “I like this idea of personaliz­ation, which truly reflects our approach to retail — a very unique and distinctiv­e one.”

The company’s personal attitude also defines its first Milan flagship, inaugurate­d on Thursday with an event featuring Gosha Rubchinski­y as the special guest. Spanning more than a 3,768-square-foot surface, the men and women’s store sells labels that range from Marni and Comme des Garçons to Marine Serre, Craig Green and Stefano Pilati’s Random Identities. The store is marked by a versatile, flexible concept, which was designed by architect Andrea Caputo to change and adapt to different occasions.

“We wanted a modular shop. Nothing is static here. Everything is designed to be easily moved to radically change the setup according to our needs,” said Carpinteri, referring, for example, to the glass and wood structures covering the walls which can be opened to create screens to divide the space, as well as the wheeled high-tech cabinets used to display the collection­s across the store, and the structured, yet lightweigh­t walnut totems that house the accessorie­s.

Innovation and artisanal tradition are combined in the store, where precious details, such as wood door handles curved by hand by Japanese artist Yasufumi Takahashi, are juxtaposed with postindust­rial finishings.

“From colorful foams which are usually used to isolate and road work’s corrugated iron to the alveolar aluminum employed to cover trucks, we put materials which are usually considered merely functional into the spotlight,” said Caputo. “Usually it’s about hiding them in the best possible way. Here, they get an aesthetic value.”

With 12 large windows and facing Milan’s Piazza Risorgimen­to, the store is located outside one of the busiest streets of the city’s luxury shopping area.

“This is one of the most Milanese areas of Milan, very bourgeoisi­e,” said Carpinteri.

“The choice to open here just outside the center is strategic since we find the Golden Triangle quite standardiz­ed. Conversely, we wanted to create something special, a unique destinatio­n, able to create a dialogue with the neighborho­od and the people living and working here, or who just come frequently to the area.”

For this reason, Modes created in the Milan store a space which, along with housing a magazine section edited by Milanese firm Reading Room and a range of books selected by curator Bruno Ceschel, will host talks and readings focused on different topics, including fashion, art and photograph­y.

“Seventy percent of our sales are currently finalized online but we strongly believe in a significan­t comeback of the brick-and-mortar experience,” said Carpinteri. “We talk to a community of people sharing the same passion and I think that these individual­s really look for places like this to meet and exchange ideas.”

In keeping with this vision, Modes is inaugurati­ng a 4,306-square-foot store in the ski resort Saint Moritz. Located next to the Kulm Hotel, it features a reinterpre­ted version of the concept designed by Caputo for the Milan store.

“We developed a three-year business plan and this includes the opening of more stores in key internatio­nal locations,” said Carpinteri. Along with the shops in Milan and Saint Moritz, Modes operates the storied boutique in Trapani, as well as summer seasonal units in Portofino and Favignana, a tiny island off the northwest coast of Sicily. In addition, Modes operates through a concession agreement three Balenciaga flagships, located in the Italian high-end seaside resorts Porto Cervo, Portofino and Forte dei Marmi.

 ??  ?? Inside Modes’ Milan store.
Inside Modes’ Milan store.

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