Martin Grant
Martin Grant entered the lockdown better equipped than most. Earlier this year, he revealed that he would produce his collections using only fabrics he had in stock, meaning he didn’t struggle with supply chain issues when the coronavirus restrictions hit.
The designer decided to stick with a similar strategy for his spring 2021 collection, and condensed the lineup to focus on daywear and his own brand of elevated loungewear — think a magenta silk “dressed-up” pajama, or minimalist blue linen overalls with wide legs.
“It’s very much about paring back to really essential pieces and all natural fabrics, and only using stock fabrics. So if I have to buy in fabric, I’ll only buy in fabric that already exists, not that has to be produced,” Grant explained. “It feels right to be doing that, and even more particularly in this environment.”
He focused on comfort, with items including a navy peacoat in deceptively light double cotton jersey, or a Madras check jacket in a shirting fabric lined in silk. Best of all were the buttonless coats made of discontinued couturegrade fabrics, including one in a pristine ivory satin. Only 10 of each piece will be produced.
They made up for the absence of eveningwear, demand for which has dried up along with the social scene in many countries. Grant offered instead a black worsted wool trenchcoat and matching wide-leg pants that could smartly transition from day to night.
“It felt a bit like a palate cleanser,” he said of his scaled-back approach. With their timeless appeal and responsible sourcing, these pieces should linger in wardrobes well after the virus is gone.