Character Study
The pandemic shift to digital fashion shows has put a premium on models who are personalities and performers like model-actress Hari Nef, seen here in a look previewing Stuart Vevers’ TV-themed “Coach Forever” fall collection which will include an allstar cast in short videos that channel surf genres and references to Coach’s pop culture history.
Lafayette 148
“The fall 2021 collection is really based around this idea of resetting, reimagining and restarting a fresh outlook,” the voice of Lafayette 148 creative director Emily Smith spoke over the opening scene of the brand’s fall collection runway film. “‘Normal’ really wasn’t working, that’s sort of why we are in this place right now. So, this idea of resetting is really about relooking at how we were, because we were working in such a disposable environment and something needed to change.”
Celebrating 25 years of business, in the midst of the pandemic, Smith wanted to reset and re-look at how the brand was not only producing collections, but also displaying them. Aesthetically, the line looks as beautiful as ever, displaying rich, sophisticated layers emboldened with saturated, vibrant colors balanced with earthy tones. Beyond the initial glance, the collection’s strength also stems from Smith’s sustainable push: a focus on quality over quantity through a tightly edited assortment, an increase in organic and sustainable materials — natural yarns, undyed noble fibers, fabrics spun from regenerated filaments, as well as repurposed archival fabrics. Even the runway film’s custom set design, featuring an artificial forest made up of collaged photographs of trees in Central Park, will be repurposed for Lafayette 148’s store windows when the collection hits in the fall.
The look: Rich, luxurious layers full of styles that will stand the test of time.
Quote of note: “All told, the collection proves that luxury, sustainability and versatility can live in harmony, and offers a blueprint to build on for the next quarter century — both for women’s wardrobes and L148,” the collection notes read. “It’s such a disposable industry, and it shouldn’t be. If we do things thoughtfully, there’s so much more we can do,” Smith echoed.
Key looks: Boiled down into a tightly edited selection of 12 looks ( out of the original 38), each tonally layered style truly proved as a key element to the overall collection. Standouts straddled masculine/feminine and hard/ soft: an ultramarine trenchcoat with exaggerated arm holes; easy dresses and fluid skirts with a warped, cerebral print interpreted from photographs of nature; knit cashmere and wool layers — cardigans, turtlenecks, cable- knits, long scarves — worn with enveloping, luxe coats; Italian wool suiting in a fresh, monochromatic emerald; the brand’s new “Greenwich” coat made of mohair boucle, traceable yarn with quilted interior. Also a focused offering of leather boots; the brand’s new luxe leather, structured carry- all handbag.
The takeaway: Smith’s fall collection proved standout, in many ways, for the brand. — Emily Mercer
Vince
“The last year has felt quite surreal, which got us thinking about Surreal and avant- garde artists,” Vince’s creative director Caroline Belhumeur stated. While inspirations for the fall collection imagery stemmed from the Surrealist films of Maya Deren ( specifically “Meshes of the Afternoon”) and moody, shadow-filled photography of Sheila Metzner, the garments themselves evoked quiet sophistication.
In addition, the brand is building out its sustainable offerings, reimagining a handful of core styles with responsible fabrics such as Tencel, recycled wool and Naia.
The look: A robust assortment of elevated, cozy dress and refined layers.
Quote of note: “Thinking about continuing this language of discrete luxury.”
Key looks: An evolution of knit dressing: from knitted camisoles (new takes on the brand’s silk signatures), cardigans, polos and cable knit tops to hand-knit bags and an alpaca hand-knit cardigan. Elevated bodysuits with twisted draping; a burnout fitted blouse and asymmetric drape skirt; a white blouse with special jewel-like buttons; reimagined loungewear with a nod to men’s wear dressing — relaxed button downs; tapered pants; silk separates; cozy, chic outerwear in leather; nubby faux fur; wool, and more.
The takeaway: Through a palette of interesting neutrals — camel, cool greens, shades of earth and oak — and dusty blues, purples and pinks, the collection offered wardrobe staples that balanced ease and polish. — E.M.
Rebecca Taylor
Throughout Rebecca Taylor’s fall collection, a 1960s energy emerges in a “mod for now,” idea. Committed to broadening the label thoughtfully, creative director Steven Cateron took to the season to find the Rebecca Taylor language in knits and outerwear.
The look: “Romanticism redefined.”
Quote of note: “There’s a real focus on the detail; luxury moments [that] are fun and exciting; expressive individuality and indulgence of texture. The other big thing is continuing to broaden the category bases — playing a lot with knitwear and sweaters, beautiful outerwear pieces.”
Key looks: Luxe knits with intriguing, and sometimes playful, details: a sweater with soutache braided appliqué sleeves, a hand- embroidered cardigan made in Peru with exaggerated pom-pom decoration (styled with a reversible shearling bucket hat), a boucle wool stitch sweater with removable cotton plissé tie (an ode to an old Chanel moment). Intriguing outerwear in leather (a croc stamped, boxy dark chocolate jacket with covered buttons or a cognac trench), blonde shearling or long brushed Italian wool peacoat. Graphic, retro Deco floral embroideries and prints hand-painted in house and rendered on a silk pajama or silk chiffon dress; an avocado colored dress with starburst pleats and long, fluid silhouette.
The takeaway: Cateron continues to redefine who Rebecca Taylor is as a brand in a fashionable, modern way, balancing the label’s signature sweetness and romance with rich textures, special details and luxe appeal. — Emily Mercer
Arias
“Spring was a bit more ethereal, but this season I’m like, ‘let’s get back down to business.’ We’re working busy women with busy lifestyles and we want to be comfortable and chic day-to-night,” designer Nina Sarin Arias said over Zoom.
While the designer’s collections have always been made in New York, fall was designed as a dedication to downtown. As seen through the look book photos, which were shot in front of her SoHo storefront, the collection displays rich, quintessential fall layers - fluid dresses with just enough bounce and volume, tailored separates, chic outerwear, stellar knit dresses, and so forth.
Inspired by the abstract, geometric artworks of Suzan Frecon’s 2018 painting, “Yellow Lantern,” Sarin
Arias also infused rounded shapes into tailored silhouettes, knot and wrapped, tie details in a palette inspired by the artist’s works.
Continuing from spring, the collection was rendered entirely in natural and eco-friendly fibers such as recycled wools, upcycled cottons, wool cashmere knits, eco jersey, eco denim, and floral and silk silk twill.
The look: Quintessential fall perfect for a Chelsea morning downtown.
Quote of note: “With admiration for the art world and the city, I am dedicating this collection to downtown New York. The collection is an ode to the women who are resilient, powerful, compassionate and creative.”
Key looks: Ribbed knit dresses proved standout with cutout and foldover tie-details (also seen in denim and silk renditions); rounded, tailored separates in mohair tartan; a sharp, classic tailored topcoat; a poppy pink floral printed frock with matching scarf.
Takeaway: Sarin Arias’ fall collection displayed a cool downtown spirit through sophisticated, easy-to-wear styles. — E.M.
LBV
Founded by chief executive officer Joss Sackler and designed by creative director Elizabeth Kennedy, the LBV fall 2021 collection is inspired by the musicians and artists of the 1970s using a palette of electric blue, chartreuse, canary yellow and rich metallics.
The collection channeled that disco energy into structured suiting, bold outerwear and several evening gowns using embellishments and touches of hardware.
“This is one of our most empowering collections, inspired by female icons who paved the way for generations of independent, fearless women,” Sackler explained. “We’re looking forward to fall with a strong sense of optimism.” — Thomas Waller
Kallmeyer
When designer Daniella Kallmeyer isn’t busy creating collections or spending time at her Lower East Side storefront, she enjoys spending time building furniture. For the fall collection, her passions fused into one.
“I went down a deep dive of female architects and furniture makers,” Kallmeyer said during an appointment in her Orchard Street shop. “I was seeing pictures of these artists and got into — maybe it was also the moment that we were all having, this creative exploration with all this time at home — trying to figure out what famous artists looked like when they were in their height of creating.
“Georgia O’Keeffe — when she was in the desert, what did she wear?” Kallmeyer questioned. These ideas, combined with those of traditional, formal uniform and a bit of a ranch/desert vibe all translated into a fresh collection that embodied the creative uniform.
The look: The modern creative uniform — a little bit of edge mixed with utility and refinement.
Quote of note: ”’What do artists wear in their own space?’ stands out to me particularly,” Kallmeyer said. “When you’re working on a new collection, how does what you wear influence the work that you’re making?“
Key looks: Sleek trousers and skirts comprised of deadstock vegan leather; an understated, sexy, black three-piece suit with vest designed more as a bodice (with longer front and cropped back); wool jackets (made from recycled wool fibers in Italy) with special, hand- stitched or fringe details (also rendered in a dickie and wrap skirt); shirred cotton dresses and tops.
The takeaway: More than ever, the collection displays a robust wardrobe, offering strong, elevated versions of items you’d realistically want to wear every day. — E.M.