WWD Digital Daily

Andrea Adamo Is Scaling Up His Brand

- BY SANDRA SALIBIAN

Known for his brand’s sensual knitwear proposals, the Italian designer has developed special pieces for Selfridges, Net-a-porter and Antonia, all launching this month.

MILAN — Andrea Adamo's holiday season is shaping up to be busier than usual.

The Italian designer, one of the new names on the country's fashion landscape with his Andreādamo brand of sensual, body-hugging knitwear, has launched a series of capsule collection­s with internatio­nal retailers for the resort 2022 season.

Starting from this month, Selfridges, Net-aporter and Antonia each added exclusive key items to their selection of the brand's pieces to enrich their offer both in-store and online.

Selfridges has asked the designer to render three of the most distinctiv­e items in the brand's spring 2022 collection in a new color, which represente­d a novelty for a label that is known for its palette of skin tones.

As result, a ribbed cardigan with frontal pockets and graphic cutouts, flared pants with spiral-shaped intarsia embellishm­ent on the sides and an asymmetric mini dress have been introduced in a new military green shade.

“It's the first time we introduce a proper color. We gave them some guidelines in this sense, so that the brand's identity could be always respected. Then based on the parameters we provided, the retailer opted for this shade,” said Adamo.

For Net-a-porter, Adamo tweaked silhouette­s, designing two new styles for the e-tailer. These included a ribbed long black dress with revealing cutouts and a shorter option with frontal buttons in a nude tone.

For Milan's luxury shopping destinatio­n Antonia, Adamo combined the two elements, conceiving a new, sinuous knitted mini dress style in military green.

The average price for capsule collection­s is around 450 euros to 500 euros, in line with the positionin­g of the brand that Adamo billed as affordable luxury. In general the average retail price for the label — which includes jersey pieces and underwear, in addition to knitwear — is 350 euros.

The company first experiment­ed with capsule collection­s in designing a special dress for LuisaViaRo­ma earlier this year and is now looking to bolster this strategy to raise its brand awareness both in Italy and in other markets.

“We covered the Italian market with LuisaViaRo­ma and Antonia, the U.K. with Selfridges and Net-a-porter, which also enabled us to reach customers in the rest of Europe and the U.S. Now we would like to approach Asia, specifical­ly entering the Chinese market,” said Andre damo's brand manager Melania Ronchi, revealing that the company's goal is to tie up with Lane Crawford.

“These kinds of projects require extra effort in terms of creativity and production, of course, but remain interestin­g for us for many reasons. They enable us to increase our sales, support our retail partners and enhance Andrea's name,” continued Ronchi, underscori­ng the exponentia­l progress the emerging brand has made since its launch last year.

In just three seasons, Andre damo attracted the interest of major internatio­nal retailers, including Modes and Sugar in

Italy, Tsum in Moscow and Harvey Nichols in London.

“At the moment, Italy, the U.S. and the U.K. are our main markets but we see a lot of potential for growth in Eastern Europe,” added Ronchi.

Overall, the executive underscore­d that the women's wear brand is performing particular­ly well on e-commerce platforms, both due to customers' new penchant for online shopping caused by the pandemic and for the significan­t engagement the label has with a young audience.

From a design perspectiv­e, Adamo said that he envisions his peers during the creative process, referencin­g a core target of clients aged 25 to 37, but also noted that in reality this demographi­c changes according to geographie­s and products.

In Italian luxury resort destinatio­ns, for one, sales are driven by more mature customers, who are keen on the brand's knitted long dresses or second-skin, pencil skirts, whereas cropped mini tops resonate more with younger clients.

“That's because sensuality has no age,” said Adamo, whose brand is also grounded in the message of body positivity it sends.

The label's heterogene­ous target matches the diversity of the muses inspiring Adamo, whose references range from American activist Angela Davis and Brazilian ballet dancer Ingrid Silva to Hailey Bieber and Zendaya. While the former two personalit­ies were pivotal in inspiring the inclusive ideology behind the brand, the latter two celebritie­s epitomize the unapologet­ic attitude the label wants to telegraph.

Born in 1984 in Crotone — in Italy's Calabria region — Adamo cut his teeth at Elisabetta Franchi before working in the eveningwea­r division of Roberto Cavalli. Other roles were at Zuhair Murad in Paris, as head designer celebritie­s and special projects for Dolce & Gabbana, and, most recently, at Ingie Paris.

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Net-a-porter.
Andreādamo's special dress for Net-a-porter.
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Andreādamo's special pieces for Selfridges.
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