Mame Kurogouchi
Unable to travel to Paris to show during fashion week due to the ongoing pandemic, Maiko Kurogouchi decided instead to present her collection with a runway show in Tokyo. She chose a well-known museum complex as her venue, with models walking along two sides of a large square reflecting pool. Kurogouchi’s inspiration for the season also came from Japan, in particular from Nagano prefecture, where the designer grew up.
The collection was rich in color and texture, with various textiles mimicking mossy forests, mountain landscapes and rocky streams. Another source of inspiration was the Jomon period of Japanese history, which dates from around 14,000 to 300 BCE. Using photos of artifacts from the period, Kurogouchi reinterpreted their patterns and textures in corded embroidery and intricate lace in a range of warm brown hues.
The silhouettes ranged from classic to sporty, with tech jersey training tops in neon shades of orange, green and pink peeking out from high-necked pantsuits in wool or velvet, and anoraks worn over pencil dresses and faux fur vests. A series of intricate, lacy dresses with flouncy hems were stunning both for their craftsmanship and for their flattering shapes. Kurogouchi’s knitwear also stood out, with its earthy colors and exaggerated textures.
The collection was in many ways a departure from the delicate pieces Kurogouchi often creates, but was still just as beautiful and feminine. The ample contrasts came together in a way that was at once modern and timeless.