WWD Digital Daily

Net Profit at Aeffe More Than Doubles in Q1

● A strong performanc­e in the U.S. and Europe helped Aeffe post gains in profits, margins and revenues in the three months of the year.

- BY LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — A strong performanc­e in the U.S. and Europe helped Aeffe SpA more than double its net profit and push margins up by 45 percent in the first quarter of the year.

Aeffe is listed on the STAR segment of the Milan Bourse and comprises the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Pollini brands.

In the three months ended March

31, net profit totaled 8.9 million euros, compared with 3.7 million euros in the same period last year.

Revenues amounted to 101.6 million euros, up 26.8 percent compared with 80.1 million euros at the end of March last year. Sales of the ready-to-wear division amounted to 67.7 million euros, up 28.4 percent.

Revenues of the footwear and leather goods division rose 28.8 percent to 46.2 million euros.

Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciati­on and amortizati­on jumped 45 percent to 20.4 million euros, or 20 percent of revenues, compared with 14.1 million euros last year, lifted by a higher percentage incidence of full-price sales, both in the wholesale and retail channels, and the lower incidence of fixed costs which, although higher than in the first quarter of 2021 had a lower percentage incidence compared to turnover.

“The first quarter of 2022 confirmed the trends of the financial year 2021 with a significan­t growth in revenues and a more than proportion­al progressio­n in profitabil­ity, results obtained thanks to the good performanc­e of all our brands together with the benefits related to the structural efficiency of the business model implemente­d over the last two years,” said executive chairman Massimo Ferretti. “In addition, despite the uncertaint­y linked to the geopolitic­al tensions of the ongoing conflict in Ukraine, the 9 percent growth in order intake for collection­s witnesses the appreciati­on of our customers for the group’s brands.”

Ferretti also touted the group’s new strategic direction for the Moschino brand and the direct management of its distributi­on in the Chinese market, which will materializ­e in the next quarter.

Last year, the company took full control of Moschino, paying 66.6 million euros for the 30 percent stake in the brand it didn’t own. It also acquired the license to produce and distribute the Love Moschino collection­s of women’s apparel in-house for 3.6 million euros.

Aeffe took control of Moschino’s distributi­on in mainland China, signaling the increasing relevance of that market for the label. This involved around 20 stores, which have been operated for the past 10 years by Scienward Fashion and Luxury (Shanghai) Co. Ltd. In addition, Moschino will open four franchised stores with a new partner. The company expects to have 30 directly operated stores and 22 franchised units in China in five years.

As reported, Moschino, which is designed by Jeremy Scott, is returning to present its menswear collection in Milan on June 19 during the city’s Men’s Fashion Week after years of showing in cities including Los Angeles, New York and Rome.

In the first quarter, consolidat­ed operating profit amounted to 14.2 million euros, compared to 7.7 million euros in 2021.

Sales in Italy were up 24.6 percent to 42.7 million euros, boosted by a strong performanc­e of the wholesale channel.

The retail channel also recorded a 68 percent increase compared to the first quarter of 2021.

Revenues in Europe climbed 37.5 percent, representi­ng 31.1 percent of the total, mainly due to the positive trend in the U.K. and in Germany in the wholesale channel. Retail recovered compared to the first quarter of 2021 with a 116 percent jump.

In Asia and in the Rest of the World area, sales decreased 1.2 percent to 17.6 million euros, representi­ng 17.3 percent of the total.

In particular, Greater China saw a slowdown before Aeffe took over direct management of distributi­on.

Sales in America climbed 91.7 percent to 9.6 million euros, accounting for 9.5 percent of the total.

Sales of the wholesale channel, which represents 76.8 percent of the total at 78 million euros, were up 20.1 percent.

The retail channel, accounting for

19.2 percent of the total, or 19.5 million euros, was up 61.2 percent. The company has 57 directly operated stores and 143 franchised units and there were no changes in the period.

E-commerce sales, considered separately, recorded a positive trend in the quarter after two years of strong growth, with double-digit growth.

Royalties grew 33 percent to 3.8 million euros, accounting for 4 percent of the total.

As of March 31, financial debt stood at 100 million euros net of the IFRS 16 effect, compared with 57.3 million euros at the end of March last year, considerin­g the acquisitio­n of Moschino and its license. Net of these extraordin­ary effects, the net financial position would have improved by 27.5 million euros, thanks to the better economic results achieved and the effective management of working capital.

 ?? ?? Moschino, fall 2022
Moschino, fall 2022

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