WWD Digital Daily

Jonathan Cohen Unveils Spring Line

- — EMILY MERCER

“The collection started as I was doing some spring cleaning and came across an old box of books. I was pulling out three books from my favorite artists, Lee Krasner, Frida Kahlo and Judi Regal; I was thinking about the commonalit­ies between them, how they were overshadow­ed by their male counterpar­ts. Feeling that way through creativity — it was inspired by imagining them in their studios painting. There’s a psychedeli­c, dripping painting feel,” New York-based designer Jonathan Cohen said of his spring collection’s standout knit dress and a shrunken cardigan with warped rainbow stripes. He continued the idea with saturated brights and signature florals with drippy or blurred painterly effects across timeless, feminine styles (like a standout bonded cotton taffeta bustier and ballgown set).

Since launching his label in 2011, Cohen has been committed to sustainabl­e brand messaging thrugh innovative techniques — evident through spring’s floral decoration­s ( derived from fabric scraps) atop his darling cocktail fashions, reworked striped buttondown­s and debut embroidere­d leather looks.

“Something we’re really excited about this season is we’re working with biotech company Evolved By Nature — they’ve figured out how to do a silk finish on leather so there are no chemicals involved in treating the leather,” he said of spring’s leather trench, dresses, shirting and skirts.

Furthermor­e, since opening his bi- level Upper East Side boutique in May ( originally intended as a pop- up that has since been extended) the designer and

Sarah Leff, cofounder and chief executive officer, have taken their customer- based learnings from the shop floor to tweak existing silhouette­s, offer custom designs and introduce new ideas.

“It feels as though we’re taking control of our business,” he said. Case in point, spring’s “sexier” yellow scoop neck, bodicehugg­ing gown, which Cohen noted “didn’t take off [ with buyers], until customers loved.”

 ?? ??
 ?? ?? Looks from Jonathan Cohen, spring 2023
Looks from Jonathan Cohen, spring 2023

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States