WWD Digital Daily

Fendi, Prada, Loewe Take Over Rinascente for the Holiday Season

The department store's Christmas windows in Milan, Rome and Florence mark 25 years of the Fendi Baguette bag and holiday collection­s of Prada and Loewe.

- BY SANDRA SALIBIAN

MILAN — A touch of Rome in Milan, Milanese charm in Rome and Spanish flair in Florence — Rinascente shuffled up luxury brands and served up a new strategy for the holiday season by partnering with fashion houses for its nine units across Italy.

Diverting from the approach of the past few years that saw the department store spotlighti­ng local artisanal ateliers in its Christmas windows, Rinascente unveiled a series of branded takeovers, starting from its jewel-in-the-crown location overlookin­g the Duomo cathedral in Milan.

At the flagship, the retailer partnered with Fendi, which leveraged the store's nine arched windows to further celebrate the 25th anniversar­y of its iconic Baguette bag. In addition to renditions of the design, looks pulled from the collection that paraded in New York in September were on display, immersed in a special installati­on. Conceived by Rotterdamb­ased design studio Odd Matter, the redtinged setting featured wood structures covered in extra-long fringes nodding to willow trees and intended to evoke “an enchanted forest,” as Fendi's president for Europe Andrea Rigogliosi explained on Friday when the windows were unveiled.

Flanked by Rinascente's chief executive officer Pierluigi Cocchini and the event's godmother Valentina Ferragni, Rigogliosi said the idea was to offer a dreamlike landscape, which extended beyond the windows since the installati­on also embellishe­d Rinascente's arcade. The department store's facade was additional­ly covered in lights to host video projection­s of the iconic bag and festive motifs, while inside the Fendi logo covered key design elements, such as the escalators.

Cocchini explained that the first talks with Fendi on the project began in January and that this activation running through the beginning of 2023 strengthen­s the relationsh­ip with the brand, which last year also staged the Fendi Caffè temporary bar on the seventh floor of the store.

Meanwhile, in Rome, Rinascente has partnered with Prada for a takeover of the seven windows of its Via del Tritone location. Black-and-white images of the Prada Holiday advertisin­g campaign framed in red serves as a backdrop to ready-to-wear and accessorie­s displays in the windows, while inside a pop-up in the same colors and featuring a neonlight Christmas tree showcases a special selection of bags and gift items.

Loewe has taken over the Rinascente's unit in Florence, while in Catania, Sicily, three key fragrances from Parfums Christian Dior are celebrated in the windows. For its outpost in Turin, the department store linked up with Champagne brand Maison Ruinart.

All the activation­s are part of an overarchin­g seasonal theme dubbed “Believe in Wonder.” This is also the claim of a dedicated advertisin­g campaign conceived by the Wunderman Thompson agency, which includes an animated video produced by Maga Animation Studio that will debut on Italian TV channels on Sunday.

Even with the change of strategy, Rinascente continued to show its support of local artisans as part of its Christmas product offering, such as brands hailing from San Gregorio Armeno, a historic street in Naples known for ateliers specializi­ng in handmade figurines of nativity scenes. Items by Lemax

— a Chinese company specialize­d in music boxes and miniatures recreating

enchanted Christmas villages with white slopes, moving trains and carousels — are also part of the Christmas assortment.

This product category flanks a special selection of liquors, sweets and delicatess­en, a sector Rinascente has been increasing­ly investing in. Sales of Christmas objects and food combined are growing between 30 and 40 percent compared to 2019, said Cocchini.

“Christmas shopping here already started in mid-October. We unveil the windows now just to further spotlight this moment but sales are already going strong.…For us [the holiday season] is a key period because we can have new categories compared to other moments of the year,” noted Cocchini.

Overall, the executive was confident about Rinascente's performanc­e in 2022, as he teased that total revenues will come

close to those registered in 2019, a record year for the retailer when it reported sales of 800 million euros, growing double digits compared to 2018. Rinascente is owned by Thailand's Central Group.

“The first quarter of 2022 was extremely challengin­g,” said Cocchini, mentioning the pandemic and the war bursting out in Ukraine. “But since May we started to recover very well and perform better and better. And in these past six months we did even better than in 2019,” he added, also crediting Black Friday. “We can't really compare [this Black Friday] to the one in 2019, which was only a single day. With the pandemic we abandoned that idea to embrace Black Friday promotions for nine days,” said Cocchini.

The profile of consumers has changed as well. Chinese and Russian customers that used to represent the top clients of the department stores were replaced by Americans and Middle Eastern shoppers, closely followed by Europeans, specifical­ly those hailing from the U.K. encouraged by tax-free shopping.

 ?? ?? Prada Holiday pop-up at Rinascente's Via del Tritone location in Rome.
Prada Holiday pop-up at Rinascente's Via del Tritone location in Rome.
 ?? ?? Loewe's takeover of Rinascente in Florence.
Loewe's takeover of Rinascente in Florence.
 ?? ?? One of Rinascente's windows in Milan.
One of Rinascente's windows in Milan.

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