Retailers Seek Points Of Distinction At Coterie
Appealing to consumers, who have an abundance of shopping options, requires considerable thought and effort.
NEW YORK — Like the shoppers who they cater to, retailers are increasingly giving their spending considerable thought and purpose.
That mindset was spelled out by several store owners at last week’s Coterie New
York show. More than 800 contemporary and advanced contemporary labels were on display at the three-day event at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. One new addition was Gallery, an area that showcased such collections as Jason Wu Handbags, Haus Label, Malami and Honor the Gift. International labels from companies based in Ukraine, South Korea, Italy and other countries could also be found.
Knowing that shopping is no longer the carefree pastime that it once was for many consumers, several stores charted specific courses. Along with competition from price-cutting department stores, off-price retailers, outlet malls and at-your-service local specialty stores, buyers have the burden of the behemoth online business, which was forecast to generate about $205 billion in revenue growth last year. And all that stay-at-home time has made millions more comfortable buying without walking into a store. As noted in last year’s “State of Apparel & Footwear Study,” 51 percent of respondents said they spend more on apparel purchases online than they did before the pandemic.
Having opened Birch, a boutique in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, five years ago, Kate Belavitch said, “As somebody who is new to this, my biggest challenge has been trying to make sure that I am not repeating what I am seeing in my town. I fully believe that a rising ship floats all boats, but some vendors will indiscriminately sell to whomever. Brick-and-mortar struggles enough with [competition from] online, direct-toconsumer selling. I also don’t need to be competing with the girl who is directly down the street from me.”
Given that, working closely with reps at “a really small show” to ensure they will protect her territory in order that she can offer a product “that is original and interesting” has its own challenges. “People don’t want to see themselves coming and going. If they are buying from me, it’s because it’s special and different,” she said.
Some of Birch’s strong performing brands include Circolo 1901 — “a home run line that is absolutely beautiful.” The Italian felted wool pants and jackets are higherend, but the styles “tick all the boxes” for New England shoppers — machinewashable, very practical, interesting designs that skew traditional and can be worn all year long. The label’s pants run from around $290 to $340 at retail and jackets are slightly higher. The Spanish brands Vilagallo and PMS Pure Barcelona were other must-see lines, as was Le Shirt’s Rochelle Behrens whose No Gape button technology allows for a well-fitted front and GoSilk for washable silk items that young women are gravitating toward.
As wintry weather approached in November and December, there were some rumblings about how home heating costs and rising fuel prices would affect household economics. Recently, there has been more chatter about rising food prices. Birch saw a resurgence in spending in January, with some shoppers drawn in by sales. “I bought in September for the spring and I bought very cautiously. I thought the economic outlook didn’t look great. The jury’s out still. We’ll have to see.”
Despite that, she isn’t buying cautiously for the fall, which is a great season for Birch. “I can’t go wrong with sweaters and things that are a little different.”
Canvassing Coterie with a quartet of colleagues, Obligato owner Patty Baer was primarily trying to find dresses for spring and summer, as well as sweaters and jackets for fall. In business for 39 years, the Esat Hampton, New York, store’s longevity can be attributed to the in-store experience. Rather than barrage repeat customers with texts and phone calls, the team offers a “very friendly vibe” in the store, Baer said.
Like a few other retailers at Coterie, she preferred not to name any show resources that she ordered from, which tended to be smaller brands that are less recognizable than those major retailers carry. All in all, business is strong due partially to the pandemic-induced influx of year-round residents and Obligato’s status as one of the last mom-and-pop operations in the Hamptons. In recent years, more luxury stores like Valentino and Chanel have opened outposts in the East End. “Where we are the Hamptons have changed, and we’re still a nice independent [store],” Baer said.
However, that wave of designer boutiques helps Obligato by attracting ready-to-spend shoppers. “Also, it is a breath of fresh air to come in [to our store] and see something that’s not $2,500.”
Shopping mostly for spring and summer items, and some pre-fall for their Cape
May, New Jersey, store Thread & Root Clothing Co., the mother-daughter team of Barb and Leah Kelleher were looking for dresses, pants, tops, skirts and “a little bit of everything.” Z Supply is among the labels that they ordered from. Business is great with the average purchase being $100 to $200 per item, which is consistent with a year ago. The fact that many people relocated to their seaside community during the pandemic has fortified the year-round business. In addition, Thread &
Root’s price range is more attainable than other local retailers, they said.
In New York for the first time in two years from Calgary, where she runs Leo boutique, Cornelia Wiebe planned to explore the whole show for advanced contemporary looks. Oversize silhouettes and sustainable items that are made with eco-minded production were top of her list. A year past pandemic safety restrictions were lifted in Canada, business is much better than a year ago. “Certainly, folks are back at work and back in restaurants and enjoying entertainment. All of that has just made business really great,” she said.
In addition to Simon Miller, Wiebe planned to check out the area featuring designers from South Korea. On average, Wiebe said more shoppers are buying four items in one swoop versus last year when they were spending more conservatively and buying an item or
two at a time, Wiebe said.
Julie Magnan and Leila Ligougne attended the show to find stylish collections in sustainable fabrics that are locally made with a natural look.
Two years ago, they launched their own ecologically centered label called Julei Design, a name that blends their first names. Similarly, they want to add complimentary collections with a shared ideology to sell online. With no set list of brands to see, the Montrealbased cofounders planned to stop at whichever ones caught their attention with a new modern look and shared their ideology. They wanted to find everyday styles that can be worn at home or for the office just by changing your shoes. But they emphasized that they were not in the market for anything ultracasual and were trying to contribute to a more sophisticated type of sustainable fashion.