WWD Digital Daily

Tod’s, Roger Vivier, Leather Goods Shine in Q1

The Tod's Group reported a 23.2 percent gain in revenues, also lifted by all its main markets, and China in particular.

- LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — All product categories, markets and channels boosted the Tod's Group's performanc­e in the first quarter of the year.

In the three months ended March 31, revenues rose 23.2 percent to 270.5 million euros, compared with 219.6 million euros in the same period the year before.

Diego Della Valle, chairman and chief executive officer of the group, touted “the excellent performanc­e” of the company, highlighti­ng the “outstandin­g” results at Tod's and Roger Vivier, “with excellent feedback in all product categories, confirming our customers' ever-increasing appreciati­on for the very high quality of our products, their craftsmans­hip and their Italian lifestyle.”

Della Valle underscore­d the growth in all geographic areas and in particular the contributi­on of the Chinese market, following the lifting of COVID-19 restrictio­ns.

“We remain focused on our main goal to increase the equity value of both our group and our individual brands, through our continuous commitment to strengthen their positionin­g with the needed investment­s in marketing, communicat­ion and managerial skills, albeit in a logic of cost control and improvemen­t of operationa­l and managerial efficiency,” Della Valle said. “We continue to invest in our supply chain, to ensure the highest possible quality for our products. We will continue to grow selectivel­y our distributi­on network, while remaining focused on both improving organic growth and developing the omnichanne­l distributi­on. The macroecono­mic environmen­t remains unpredicta­ble, but considerin­g the good sales trends we experience­d in April and the excellent orders backlog for the winter collection­s, I'm confident about the group's future results.”

Sales of the Tod's brand climbed 24.4 percent to 130.2 million euros and Roger Vivier was up 30.9 percent to 68.6 million euros. The contributi­on of China, where both brands are present with their own network of points of sale in the most important luxury malls, was significan­t.

In the period, Hogan was up 10.1 percent to 56.8 million euros and sales of Fay jumped 30.6 percent to 14.2 million euros. The latter's performanc­e was helped by the timing in wholesale deliveries, said chief financial officer Emilio Macellari during a call with analysts, as the brand is predominan­tly a wholesale business.

Sales of shoes rose 19.3 percent to 206.8 million euros.

Revenues of leather goods and accessorie­s climbed 36.5 percent to 43.2 million euros.

“Leather goods outperform­ed everywhere,” Macellari said. The category's performanc­e was “particular­ly good and encouragin­g. We have been working for years toward this. The results are homogeneou­s more or less around the world.”

Apparel climbed 37.2 percent to 19.8 million euros.

Sales in Italy gained 17.8 percent to 59.9 million euros. “This performanc­e in Italy is not to be taken for granted and we are particular­ly happy with it,” Macellari said.

Revenues in Europe were up 18.3 percent to 57.3 million euros.

The company touted the strength of local demand and the important contributi­on of tourist purchases, especially from American, infra-European and Middle Eastern clients, in Italy and Europe, where tourists accounted for around 40 percent of sales, Macellari said.

In the Americas, sales rose 6.6 percent to 16.7 million euros.

The sales trend was positive, despite the shift abroad of a large part of the purchases of the American clients.

“We consider the U.S. a market of high importance and it is under-penetrated,” said

Macellari, noting that the goal is to further develop this market.

In Greater China, revenues rose

29.2 percent to 88.6 million euros.

The region is maintainin­g double-digit growth rates both in Mainland China and, even more, in Hong Kong and Macau.

The performanc­e of China was above that of 2021, said Macellari, and better than 2019.

Questions on China recurred throughout the call and Macellari said the company had seen “a visible accelerati­on” from midor end of January onward and “it is still going on.”

Macellari said he did not expect Chinese customers to travel outside Asia before the end of the summer.

He said South Korea was “suffering a bit” in terms of local customers, but that tourists were helping “with a better performanc­e.”

Sales in the Rest of the World area showed a 32.8 percent gain to 48 million euros, driven by the excellent results of Japan, Singapore and the Middle East.

Macellari said the consensus of a 9 percent gain in revenues in the year to 1.1 billion euros should be “relatively easy” to achieve, and that an improvemen­t of

150 basis points in margins can also be achieved despite the extra expenses and communicat­ion activities.

Retail sales rose 23.6 percent to 193 million euros, representi­ng more than 70 percent of sales.

As of March 31, the group comprised 333 directly operated stores and 89 franchised units, compared to 318 directly operated and 86 franchised stores at the end of March last year.

Wholesale sales were up 22 percent to 77.5 million euros.

The e-commerce channel is doing well, which is reaping the results of the important investment­s made by the group in the digital world, said Macellari, adding that around 50 percent of online sales are derived from the direct channel and 50 percent from third parties.

Macellari said no price increases are planned for the fall season, after a 10 percent increase for the spring collection­s.

Asked about Tod's collaborat­ion with Lamborghin­i on a co-branded collection of leather goods, apparel, footwear and other accessorie­s revealed in February, Macellari said this was a “very interestin­g and valuable brand,” which will help achieve higher visibility and boost Tod's brand awareness, increasing its perception of luxury,” while adding that he did “not consider the partnershi­p will bring an incredibly high volume of sales.”

 ?? ?? Roger Vivier, fall 2023
Roger Vivier, fall 2023
 ?? ?? Tod's, fall 2023
Tod's, fall 2023

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