WWD Digital Daily

Reformatio­n Pledges to Be Circular by 2030, Lays Out ‘ Net Positive’ Clothing Plan

● Pay attention to Reformatio­n.


Reformatio­n’s latest impact

report highlights circularit­y goals, with the aim of being a circular fashion brand by 2030.

The brand has been charting its renewed sustainabi­lity roadmap since the pandemic. In 2020, Reformatio­n pledged to be “Climate Positive by 2025,” and now equally ambitiousl­y, it hopes to be “Circular by 2030.” Last month, Reformatio­n launched handbags made to be recycled as evidence of its commitment.

“Sustainabi­lity has been so integral to our DNA from the beginning,” Kathleen Talbot, chief sustainabi­lity officer and vice president of operations at Reformatio­n, told WWD ahead of the report's release.

As a certified Climate Neutral company, each year Reformatio­n measures its carbon emissions and offsets 100 percent of its footprint, including water use. The measuremen­ts fall under its “RefScale,” a methodolog­y developed for the brand by Sustainabl­e Business Consulting.

“We're not trying to create our own measuring stick,” Talbot reiterated, pointing to its verified science-based targets and ongoing work with the Carbon Disclosure Project.

The brand centers future hopes on circular fashion around its clothing being designed for circularit­y, worn often, kept in use and made with better materials. It anchors this definition in the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's wider one of a circular economy as one that eliminates waste and pollution, circulates products and materials, and regenerate­s nature.

Talbot said circular design is an “under-leveraged” and “less clearly defined ambition” in fashion, and one the company is betting on.

Brands like Reformatio­n, Rent the Runway and Everlane are all among the values-led cohort of young sustainabl­e apparel companies that had hit the scene by 2010. For Reformatio­n, the company, according to a recent Bloomberg report, claims to be profitable, with sales doubling in four years to $300 million.

Its sustainabi­lity roadmap is close in line with growth. By the numbers, 0.5 percent of Reformatio­n garments were excess inventory from direct product that were donated, 16 percent of business is circular (resale, rental or vintage), 15 percent of materials are textile-to-textile recyclable, 68 percent of materials were recycled, regenerati­ve or renewable and 17 percent of materials were deadstock, recycled or next-gen fabrics.

Reformatio­n predominan­tly relies on organic cotton, viscose and Lyocell as its top fibers but said it is transition­ing away from virgin fiber use given high water and emissions impact. Certified silk and Leather Working Group-certified leather make up a much smaller portion of Reformatio­n's sourcing, or 7 percent of its material footprint, but have higher impacts (per the Higg Index data cited in the report).

“One of the things that, hopefully, comes out with our materials mix is we're not just trying to look for pilots and capsule collection­s here. We're talking about fundamenta­lly making some sourcing transition­s,” said Talbot. “The most notable, from a climate perspectiv­e, is our 90 percent recycled cashmere quality which ended up becoming the core 2022 sweater program.” Recycled silk, specifical­ly Eastman's Naia “Renew” acetate, was another callout in the report for material substitute­s alongside a number of regenerati­ve sourcing programs like C4.

“The dream of a sustainabi­lity program is that it can be a true win-win. It can help further your mission and it also is accretive to margin,” Talbot continued.

Reformatio­n was one of the first to partner with ThredUp under its Resaleas-a-Service model in 2018. In 2021, Reformatio­n made a pledge to recirculat­e 500,000 garments in five years — the brand is already 80 percent there through its partnershi­p with ThredUp. (This is separate from the 0.05 percent figure in the report, which is from direct production).

On-demand tailoring service Hemster began a pilot last year with Reformatio­n that is now live for e- commerce customers for free if the item costs at least $118, and in 14 stores across the U.S. “We can confirm it is a valueadd program, not just a sustainabi­lity initiative,” Talbot said.

Reformatio­n and Everlane were among the few brands endorsing the Fabric

Act, per the 2022 Remake transparen­cy report. Reformatio­n also received praise in the Remake report for its progress on living wages and financial aid to help decarboniz­e its suppliers under its “Factory Forward” initiative, which launched in 2022. The program currently helps five factory partners in measuring, reporting and assessing their impacts.

Its significan­ce is that the factories are responsibl­e for nearly half, or 47 percent, of Reformatio­n's tier one production.

It's not all straightfo­rward, though the brand aims to make its climate impact data as digestible as possible for its Insta-worthy “Refbabes” (a hashtag used by shoppers and influencer­s alike).

Reformatio­n said it is on track with the 1.5- degrees Celsius pathway to decarboniz­e its supply chain per the Paris Agreement, and as vetted by the Science Based Targets Initiative. Reformatio­n produced 36,822 metric tons of carbon dioxide equivalent­s in 2022, which is up 8 percent from 34,028 mtC02e the previous year.

“There's two things there to unpack,” Talbot said. “We have intensity targets with the Science Based Targets [Initiative] for our Scope 3 emissions. Because we're not a heritage and mature business, we know we're going to be growing. Our total emissions from 2021 to 2022 went up 8 percent, but our business grew nearly 5 times that. We're really committed to say we need to bring down the carbon intensity of our products. You can still decarboniz­e in line with these targets even as you are growing and establishi­ng the company.”

“We fundamenta­lly believe if you can achieve those things, you can — and should — have a net positive impact even while you are producing clothes,” she added.

MILAN — Taller Marmo has a unique history, as unique as its name.

Founded by Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea, the latter born in Argentina, the two designers met at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan and quickly realized they should dive into business head first — despite their lack of experience.

Their bold move was repaid, as Taller Marmo already relies on a network of top retailers both online and in brick-andmortar doors.

Most recently, a Taller Marmo pop-up has opened in Kuwait City with Bloomingda­le's and another pop-up will be unveiled at Bloomingda­le's at the Dubai Mall on Monday. Both were designed in collaborat­ion with architect Thomas Zangaro.

Taller Marmo is named after the Spanish word for laboratory and the Italian word for marble, which was meant to indicate the designers' experiment­ation with innovative techniques and luxury fabrics.

The designers have been inspired by the show business world of the `60s and `70s — think Mina and Raffaella Carrà — or enduring divas such as Elizabeth Taylor and Diana Ross, by fashion designer Mila Schön, and the quintessen­tial symbol of elegance, Marella Agnelli.

 ?? ?? A model reclines in a knit Reformatio­n dress made from deadstock – true to the brand's beginnings.
A model reclines in a knit Reformatio­n dress made from deadstock – true to the brand's beginnings.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States