Roberto Cavalli
Add Fausto Puglisi to the long list of “Succession” fans. The Sicilian designer might not pop to mind as the first name one associates to the “quiet luxury” craze sparked by the HBO series, but has identified in the character of Siobhan “Shiv” Roy (played by Sarah Snook) the archetype of the modern woman — the one he aims to target with his Roberto Cavalli collections.
“The costume designer of ‘Succession' must be God, she's fantastic,” said Puglisi about Michelle Matland. “If you look at [Snook's] character, during the day she is extremely rigorous, then in the evening or on vacation she's extremely feminine. That's what I want to do with Cavalli, too: demystifying that ‘90s belief that a woman is either sexy or prim.… You have both in the same, strong character, which is extremely contemporary and really represents today's woman.”
Since the beginning of his tenure at the brand, Puglisi has been on his own mission of redefining the seductive image of Roberto Cavalli's heyday and making its codes relevant for the post-#MeToo era. He's doing so by enhancing the multifaceted appeal of the label with collections — and pre-collections, especially — that could resonate with different demographics and tastes.
For resort 2024, Puglisi relied on a mix of references and silhouettes, starting from the aesthetic and cultural affinity between Cavalli and the ‘70s hippie movement, which “was marked a disruption with a certain type of conservatism and patriarchy” in fashion, too.
Maxiskirts with flounces, bellbottom pants and ample frocks aligned with the reference, but were tweaked here and there for today. For example, lace was drained of its usual sensual connotations when paired with cotton for a more approachable use.
A direct nod to the brand's heritage was expressed with animalier patterns and an archival print mixing lemons and snakes. Donned in 2005 by Kate Moss in the house's ad campaign, the latter was now splashed over billowing shirts, ruffled long skirts and voluminous frocks in jersey and Lycra.
The leather offering best restated and exalted the Italian craftsmanship behind the company, too. Flanking easy separates in natural tones and embellished with criss-cross detailing, a standout trench coat with diagonal intarsia of leather, lizard, python and suede in the shades of saffron, lilac, tan and burgundy made for the statement piece of the collection.
Elsewhere, tailoring looked fierce in its combination of micro and macro Prince of Wales motifs while a Hawaiian print made a bold and unexpected appearance. Apparently, the motif was inspired by another of Puglisi's HBO favorites — “White Lotus” — and made one inevitably wonder if he shouldn't indulge in such a passion and give designing costumes for film or television a try.