Fiorucci Gets New Wings for Pre- fall 2023
This is the brand's unveiling of its new direction.
LONDON — Fiorucci is turning in its vibrant party wings for something more angelic, leaning toward luxury for pre-fall 2023.
This is the brand's unveiling of its new direction.
“This is something we've been working toward for a long time and this, for me, feels like the first collection. I actually designed it last year, but because of the way that we show, I've been sitting on this one for so long,” Daniel W. Fletcher, creative director of Fiorucci, told WWD on a Zoom call ahead of the collection's launch on Thursday.
Fletcher has been part of the business for three years, beginning as the brand's men's artistic director and helping expand the categories on the shop floor beyond T-shirts, sweatshirts, denim and angel focused pieces into ready-to-wear collections.
“I think as I've grown as a designer and as the brand has developed over the last few years, the customer has grown with it as well — they are after this slightly more elevated approach to dressing now,” said Fletcher of the new collection.
The rebrand is miles away from Fiorucci's historically flamboyant designs. The pop of colors has washed away to make room for stonewashed beige printed denim jackets and jeans monogrammed with the word “Fiorucci”; sandy T-shirts with the Italian flag and gold threading; baby blue denim bomber jackets; black leather trousers; a fuzzy red sleeveless knit, and cream tailoring with a shearling hood.
“I think people want to buy clothes which are now going to stay in their wardrobe for a longer time and that is reflected in the way that we design the collections now — from just thinking about the materials that we use, we're much more conscious than we ever have been,” explained Fletcher, pointing out that the leather in the collection is made from apples, and laser techniques are used for the denim instead of bleaching and washing.
The collection is being launched in a new format to the public and press with an installation at the brand's London store in Soho instead of a party, which has been the tradition for Fiorucci over the last few years.
“Fiorucci has always been a party brand. It was born out of the '60s and '70s, when Elio Fiorucci [the founder] would show a collection by taking it to Studio 54, but no one ever really gets to see the full collection. I really want people to be able to come and see it in person and touch these clothes,” said Fletcher.
The British fashion designer, who also heads his eponymous label, will be showing his own collection at men's London Fashion Week in June.
Fletcher teased that he will be presenting at the Royal Academy of
Arts and that the collection will feature tailoring made with Huntsman Savile Row.