WWD Digital Daily

Kering Ventures Among Investors in Mogu

● The Italian company has raised 11 million euros in Series A funding, supporting the industrial­ization of mycelium-based technologi­es.

- BY LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — Mycelium-based products are once again in the spotlight.

Kering Ventures, CDP Venture Capital, European Circular Bioeconomy Fund (ECBF VC), and Progress Tech Transfer are further supporting the industrial­ization of mycelium-based technologi­es by raising 11 million euros in a Series A funding round backing Mogu Srl.

Mogu is an Italian biotech and biomateria­ls company that transforms low-value materials and residues from the agro-industry into functional and highvalue products.

The funding will enable Mogu to further scale its industrial activities, expand its team and boost its research and developmen­t efforts to further penetrate the market, continuing to build on its environmen­tal targets. Mogu's product lines are the trademarke­d Ephea and Mogu brands with high-performanc­e, low-environmen­tal impact solutions. The Mogu brand addresses interior design and architectu­re, and Ephea is a new class of animal-free alternativ­es primarily dedicated to fashion and automotive.

Mogu is the company's legally registered name; it was establishe­d in 2015 and based in Inarzo, near Varese, about a one-hour drive from Milan. However, the company is globally known as Sqim, which will become its legally official name within few weeks following the closing date of the funding round.

“We see waste as a value, upholding transparen­cy and not seeking sensationa­list propaganda,” said Maurizio Montalti, chief mycelium officer and cofounder of Sqim, in an interview. “This is a starting point, not an arrival,” he pointed out, expressing his pride in the level of the funding partners and the confidence they have in the company. “This successful fund raise is a validation of the potential of our breakthrou­gh technologi­es and next-gen materials and products.”

The company's technology is based on mycelium, the complex network of filamentou­s cells constituti­ng the vegetative stage of mushrooms. Thanks to its patented fermentati­on technique, the company grows high-quality raw mycelium materials by interweavi­ng the cells of selected fungal mycelia along bespoke fermentati­on-based processes. It works in partnershi­p with companies from the tanning industry, making use of innovative, environmen­tally sound, chrome-free methodolog­ies.

Montalti said the funds will allow it “to further capitalize on Sqim's proprietar­y technologi­cal platform, and to accelerate industrial scaling, through the deployment and launch of a new demo production plant, characteri­zed by multiple technologi­cal processual improvemen­ts.”

He explained that the investment will allow the industrial­ization of Ephea, since “the pilot plants are underdevel­oped, there are still a lot of manual, almost artisanal steps that could lead to human error, while now we will be able to have a demo plant that can be almost all automatic, optimizing processes and increasing volumes to expand the base of luxury clients.”

However, the end goal is to democratiz­e the processes. “We don't want to be exclusive, we want to arrive to all, this is our goal.” It is key to continue to keep the environmen­tal impact to a minimum without sacrificin­g the level and the performanc­e of the products, which have to be durable, he observed.

The funding will be “a catalyst to accelerate our growth further and faster, while significan­tly boosting our R&D efforts,” Montalti continued. “R&D is the beating heart of the company.”

The plan is to aim for “the most effective market penetratio­n of positively disrupting materials and products in fashion, interior, automotive and many more industries, to create positive impact, while contributi­ng to shaping a more ethically and ecological­ly responsibl­e industry.”

He said there is an increasing demand for quality-driven mycelium-based products positioned in the high end of the spectrum, allowing the company to launch new commercial products and partnershi­ps in fashion, interiors and automotive, among others.

The team comprises 30 people and Montalti said the goal with the funds is to attract new talent, doubling that number within the year.

Montalti said the company has been working with Kering for three years.

“Innovation plays an essential role within our Kering sustainabi­lity strategy. Today, we are proud to be part of this fundraisin­g, as we strongly believe alternativ­e materials are part of the solutions to reach our environmen­tal goals,” said Marie-Claire Daveu, chief sustainabi­lity and institutio­nal affairs officer at Kering. “The innovative alternativ­e developed by Sqim can contribute to expanding our offer on high quality materials. In addition to our internal labs, Kering teams are keen on building an external ecosystem of innovators and companies so that these innovation­s can be adopted on a larger scale. With our new ambitious target of 40 percent reduction in absolute emissions, we need now, more than ever, innovative players like Sqim to speed up the transition towards a more sustainabl­e industry.”

 ?? ?? Ephea and Balenciaga: Floor-length coat by Balenciaga fall 2022 launched at Paris Fashion Week in March 2022.
Ephea and Balenciaga: Floor-length coat by Balenciaga fall 2022 launched at Paris Fashion Week in March 2022.
 ?? ?? Ephea
Ephea

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States