WWD Digital Daily

Société Anonyme, a Rule Book for The Independen­t Fashion Store

Marking the 25th anniversar­y of the concept store’s house brand, owner Massimilia­no Giannelli and his daughter Ginevra recall each stage of one of the first independen­t fashion retailers in Florence.

- BY ANDREA ONATE

Florence's buzzy Sant'Ambrogio district — which is filled with restaurant­s, cafés and a hangout neighborho­od for cool local youth — is also home to Société Anonyme, an independen­t store in Florence that has become a spot for fashion enthusiast­s to find inspiratio­n and discover niche brands.

Currently located in a 3,229-square-foot space on Via Giovan Battista Niccolini after relocating from a neighborin­g street in

2006, the boutique was establishe­d in 1992 by Massimilia­no Giannelli and his wife Catia Nencini as a fabric shop, allowing the couple to gain knowledge of textiles, building on Giannelli's fabric studies at the Polimoda fashion school, a background that would help them launch a house brand in 1999.

“We started immediatel­y with this name. I have always been passionate about art, and one of the art movements that drove me crazy the most was Dadaism. Actually, this name refers to a gallery founded by Marcel Duchamp, Katherine Dreier and Peggy Guggenheim in the 1920s. My wife and I read a biography dedicated to Guggenheim and the name of this gallery appeared,” Giannelli explained.

Société Anonyme became a full-fledged clothing store in 1999, offering from the start a mix of up-and-coming, niche and under-the-radar brands, in addition to the namesake house label, the latter of which marks its 25th anniversar­y this year. Their curation, Giannelli said, attracted customers who “understood our product well.” The store carries brands such as Comme des Garçons, Dries Van Noten, Stüssy and ERL, to name a few.

Ginevra Giannelli, the daughter of the owners who's in charge of the brand's communicat­ion strategy, said: “It's always been very important for us that the multibrand store and our label would go hand in hand; neither of them has ever been left behind. There is a common thread that ties both of these worlds together since 1999.”

The Société Anonyme house label, designed by the two owners, takes cues from the Dada movement and other cultural moments, such as the Japanese artistry of wide cuts and California's skater culture.

Primarily crafted from deadstock fabrics and manufactur­ed locally, the brand offers menswear, womenswear and unisex collection­s released twice a year in tandem with Pitti Uomo. Giannelli has been a member of the Pitti Uomo technical committee since 2017.

Prices for the contempora­ry brand range from 50 euros for a top to 700 euros for a coat. Originally sold exclusivel­y at the Florence boutique, the brand's collection­s have been available at marketplac­es such as Space Mue in Seoul and Wok Store in Milan since 2022.

The store owners had already tested such marketplac­es early on, including Farfetch, for the multibrand business. It helped them expand their horizons internatio­nally, always sticking to their quest for labels that telegraph “a message, a philosophy, a concept, [brands that has] something to tell,” as Giannelli put it.

“The access to such an important and internatio­nal platform [Farfetch] also changed our purchasing methods, because we could be more daring and include brands suitable not only for the local market but for the internatio­nal one,” Giannelli explained.

The identity of the house brand and of the store have never flagged, not even in the past year, which Giannelli bills as a “annus horribilis” for retailers. “The absence of rules, the frequent discounts and markdowns, tend to devalue the product, the essence of fashion,” he said.

Ginevra added that “staying true to oneself and speaking to one's own dogmas, is what matter in a period of uncertaint­y” and it is what the community responds to.

Customer loyalty is enhanced through events and in-store activation­s, such as one held last December in which Freitag's Italian marketing director met the brand's followers. “The events represent a moment of exchange and entertainm­ent which ensure that the brands' values can be telegraphe­d in a different way,” compared to just shopping their products, Ginevra said.

As an independen­t store trying to boost its niche, Société Anonyme has an online store and a blog and online magazine where it builds storytelli­ng around projects and events.

 ?? Société Anonyme in Florence. ??
Société Anonyme in Florence.

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