WWD Digital Daily

Neiman’s Holiday Sales Down, but Up Slightly From Fall

● At the ICR Conference, CEO Geoffroy van Raemdonck detailed how NMG managed through a holiday season that was particular­ly challengin­g for the luxury sector.

- BY DAVID MOIN

Though its holiday sales were down low-single digits from a year ago, Neiman Marcus Group was neverthele­ss pleased with the outcome given the “volatile” luxury market, hesitant shoppers and the promotiona­lly charged retail sector impacting margins.

That assessment came from Geoffroy van Raemdonck, NMG's chief executive officer, who spoke at the ICR Conference in Orlando, Fla., on Tuesday.

“Early indicators suggest that our overall holiday fiscal 2024 comparable sales trend was down low-single digits to last year, while store comparable sales trends held flat to the prior year as we leaned into our relationsh­ip business model in order to drive sales despite operating in the volatile luxury retail environmen­t. We are pleased with this holiday fiscal 2024 momentum, which shows sequential improvemen­t from the fiscal [first-quarter] comparable sales results of negative 8 percent compared to the prior-year period,” van Raemdonck told the crowd of investors.

“We saw growth in spend in our top customers and brands as well as comparativ­e strength in our luxury categories of jewelry, designer handbags and ladies' shoes, as well as beauty,” the CEO added. “While we are comfortabl­e with our inventory position currently, we are competing in a retail environmen­t that continues to be highly promotiona­l and continues to impact our gross margins.”

Van Raemdonck did not provide a specific percent change or dollar amount on holiday sales, other than giving the low single digit range.

NMG's fiscal first quarter concluded on Oct. 28. Adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciati­on and amortizati­on eased to $95 million in the latest three-month period, versus $112 million in the prior-year period, the company previously disclosed to WWD. The luxury retailer, operator of Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman stores and e-commerce websites, also reported $948 million in sales for its last fiscal quarter, compared to $1.034 billion in the prior year.

“There is slowdown compared to last year but we continue to have a very profitable business, with a double-digit EBITDA rate,” van Raemdonck told WWD.

At ICR, van Raemdonck said that NMG held more than 1,000 experience­s during the last holiday season to drive traffic to the stores — and sales. “Our teams remained agile and focused, leveraging customer insights and real-time data to take targeted actions to drive sales at the individual store and category level, while our 3,300-plus sales associates provided personaliz­ed, relationsh­ip-based service. We are encouraged by the overall improvemen­t in top-line trends coming out of the fall season as we continue to be responsive to the macro environmen­t,” van Raemdonck said.

Neiman's, along with other luxury players, appears to have underperfo­rmed the retail industry overall, which according to Mastercard and various industry experts, saw a 2 to 3 percent sales lift during the holiday. Consumers have slowed their spending on discretion­ary items in favor of spending on nondiscret­ionary categories, and experience­s such as travel and dining out.

Looking ahead, van Raemdonck said the company is “well-positioned to revolution­ize luxury experience­s in the long term,” and he cited three notable post-pandemic changes in the business: financial flexibilit­y, investment­s in experience­s and building relationsh­ips with brands and customers.

“In this consumer backdrop, we are leaning into strategies that focus our investment­s on customers that seek the most desirable luxury brands. Our goal is to drive high customer lifetime value.”

Though brands of all kinds have been opening their own stores and growing their e-commerce businesses, van Raemdonck made a point of saying that “NMG has longstandi­ng relationsh­ips with our desirable luxury brands — and we will continue to be a unique and valuable retail partner. We uniquely offer our luxury brand partners the ability to drive growth, access to a customer who is normally out of reach, support to migrate to new categories, consumer insights that allow brands to better engage their target customer.

“We prioritize both in-store and remote selling, because we have seen that customers who shop in store and online, and also interact or have an ongoing relationsh­ip with a sales associate, spend 12 times more than other shoppers.”

During the holiday season, NMG held more than 1,000 events at stores including “Breakfast With Santa,” “Bejeweled

Ball,” “White Elephant” parties, trunk shows and gift personaliz­ation moments. Bergdorf Goodman wrapped close to 75,000 gifts using more than 42 miles of purple ribbon and sold more than 500 ornaments every day.

 ?? ?? Geoffroy van Raemdonck
Geoffroy van Raemdonck

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States