Independent Designers and Archival Fashion Resurged
The first awards show of the season was a platform for the new and historic.
All eyes were on the Golden Globes Sunday night, where Hollywood's biggest talents set the tone for awards season, introducing newer names and vintage style to a worldwide audience on the red carpet.
While six storied European houses — Dior, Armani, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Schiaparelli and Gucci — held court with the largest number of looks for the night, the emergence of independent and up-andcoming designers proved equally important.
Billie Eilish — winner of Best Original Song for her chart-topping “Barbie” hit “What Was I Made For” — confirmed this by pivoting from her signature Gucci to New York-based designer Willy Chavarria for her unconventional, intriguing take on red carpet dress. Chavarria recently won Latin American Fashion Awards' Designer of the Year and CFDA American Menswear Designer of the Year for his namesake label, and also is senior vice president of design for Calvin Klein North American and Global Essentials apparel, men's.
Eilish embraced Chavarria's trademark oversize tailoring — also a favorite look of hers — wearing a mélange of his spring 2024 looks (look 5's button-down, look
42's skirt and look 45's large, mannish blazer) and paired it with futuristic makeup, hair and round Oliver Peoples' Calidor glasses. “It's a big moment for new designers who hopefully the rest of the world can discover through the red carpet,” WWD's Alex Badia said during the
Style Awards, when Eilish won the title of Most Daring.
The same could be said for Sergio Hudson, who designed a custom look for Rachel Brosnahan. The sultry red wool crepe corseted column gown featured 65 functional hand-covered silk buttons and was custom-made in New York City on “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel” actress' body for the perfect fit.
Lily Gladstone made history on Sunday night, becoming the first Indigenous best actress winner for her role in “Killers of the Flower Moon,” while continuing to use her platform — both acceptance speech and red carpet look to promote inclusion and representation, which she has been doing during her press tour with stylist Jason Rembert.
“I'm wearing Valentino because it went so well on the Cannes red carpet — I just had to do it again, and representing Blackfeet designer Lenise Omeasoo of Antelope Women Designs, complementing Bulgari,” Gladstone told WWD of her custom Valentino white column gown and black coat; framed glass bead Antelope Women Designs earrings and Bulgari high jewelry necklace. The actress was awarded Best Newcomer at WWD's Style Awards.
Others looked to fashion history to reintroduce vintage and archival looks to a new generation.
“This dress was pulled from Balmain's archives for me, so it's very special,” Elle
Fanning told WWD on the red carpet. “You get nervous wearing something so fragile that's like a museum art piece, but it's made so beautifully it's going to last forever. It's the perfect dress for tonight.”
The brand opened its archives specially for Fanning and stylist Samantha
McMillen, giving them access to the 1960 strapless ballgown made of ivory satin silk, with an on-trend bow at the bust.
Kylie Jenner also went with a vintage dress, speaking to her generation's love of resale, thrifting and individual fashion, choosing a rare 1998 Hanae Mori black lace couture gown.
From the more recent past, Andra Day chose an archival 2004 Georges Chakra couture black tulle one-shoulder gown with polka dot detailing and pleated organza floral asymmetrical hem.
“Being able to create pieces that stand the test of time is a true sustainable effort. The craftsmanship of Andra's gown is a testament to the Chakra Couture atelier and their ability to craft pieces that are relevant after 20 years,” the brand told WWD.
Celebrating a fleeting moment in time, Emily Blunt glistened in a soon-to-bearchived Alexander McQueen spring 2024 pre-collection ivory tulle dress with hammered gold metal sequin flower embroidery — one of the last designed by Sarah Burton before her departure from the house. A true homage.