Jil Sander
“There's a lot of healing to sage. It's sort of a protective color,” said Luke Meier in a preview with WWD, teasing the shade would play a key role in the Jil Sander collection he codesigned with his wife Lucie.
Guests arriving under the not-so-timely pouring rain (by now a Jil Sander fashion week tradition that contributed to more than an hour's delay to the show) indeed found shelter in an oval-shaped setting covered in plush carpeting in the color. Cobalt blue horn speakers stood out as an arty installation in the middle of the venue, tasked with amplifying the live performance of young artist Mk.gee that accompanied the show.
But it was actually the couple's flair for texture and color sensibility that spoke volumes, as the Meiers paraded enveloping, rounded silhouettes and tactile flourishes that challenged the austere image and sharp tailoring frequently associated with the brand. Their quest for an intimate, enrobing feeling resulted in unexpected eccentric outbursts.
The pieces were an invitation to stretch out a hand and run it on padded velvet coats and fuzzy reversible knit pieces; sink it in the strips of cotton voile covering a cream jacket and matching skirt; squeeze the exaggerate padding of leather coats that could have doubled as inflatable pool floats, or run the fingers through the extralong silk fringes of a swishing cape.
Beautiful openwork crochet separates offered an airy break from the rich textures, which included chunky cable knits covered with a wispy, almost evanescent knit net for a blurred effect, as well as a generous dose of quilted garments. These ranged from capes and vests paired with double-faced wool tailoring to couture-like dresses that with their cocooning maxi proportions and electric blue or bright red hues were hard to miss.
Focusing on monochrome colors, the Meiers integrated other charming shades in their palette, going from chocolate and plum to pastel mint and pink, as seen in knitted dresses cut in graphic hourglass silhouettes and rounded sleeves.
Chainmail fringing details added swag to some looks, running down the sides of pants or swaying from tank tops and the backs of coats. Meanwhile, a silver strapless column dress was set to break out the Meiers' calming sage green bubble and take the red carpet instead.