Pro TiP: how to prepare perfect scrambled eggs

in france, when you go for a chef job, the head chef will often have you make scrambled eggs. if you blow it, forget the interview—just pack your bags and go home. salt draws the moisture out, so don’t salt them until the end. and don’t overcook them. when they’re nearly opaque, take them off the heat and stir in a splash of crème fraîche to stop the cooking. —J.H.