FULL CIRCLE
and a handful of that. They cooked by instinct, but to teach the recipes to the other cooks, they needed to write them down. That’s where the “laboratory” experiments come in. They’re recreating the recipes from scratch.
“They’re getting pretty close,” Robby noted.
Once they settle on a recipe, they send samples to his grandfather to taste. He gives the thumbs up or thumbs down. They’ll never put out food that doesn’t measure up to his standards, Robby said. In this way, Raymond is still very much involved.
Growing up, Robby had several “big” goals: he wanted to go to college (check), become a country singer (check — he did a couple of big shows), become a firefighter (check — he has been one for 22 years and still is with the Somerton/Cocopah Fire Department) and be a good dad to his three boys, Robert, 22, Ayden, 14, and Sammy, 10 (sort of check — this job never ends).
Robby only had one more goal to check off: bring the restaurant back into the family fold. Driving with his grandfather past the restaurant one day, Raymond pointed out the “Chretin” sign and said, ‘Look Robby! My name is still there!”
Robby took it as a sign. He made up his mind that he would do all he could to get the restaurant back. He first approached owner Clint Underhill six years ago and said that he would be interested if he wanted to sell. Six months ago Underhill called him and said, “Let’s talk.”
The transaction took about six months and Robby officially took over March 1. He had wanted to do this since he was a 13-year-old kid who bussed tables and swept floors at the restaurant.
When Raymond heard the news, he got quiet and then asked if Robby was crazy. He reminded him that running a restaurant takes a lot of work and dedication. He told Robby to always put his family first.
“My grandfather does worry about me. He’ll say, ‘I haven’t seen you.’ I used to get coffee with him every morning,” Robby said. However, Raymond understands that the first few months will be very busy.
When Robby ordered ball caps with the Chretin’s logo and handed one to his grandfather, his eyes lit up.
“The name is one my grandfather holds in very high regard and I respect him a lot like I do my dad,” Robby explained.
Chretin might not sound like a Mexican surname, but it’s the result of the historical ties between France and Mexico. Many French citizens started immigrating to Mexico beginning in the early 1820s and have contributed greatly to the culture, language (“mariachi”) and food (“bolillo,” “pan dulce”).
Robby saw it as his responsibility to bring the restaurant back into the family. He and many of his cousins went away to college, but “I came back. I was the one that stayed in Yuma. I wanted to keep my grandfather and my father’s vision and the vision of my great-grandfather alive,” he said.
He feels gratified when he sees his great-grandfather’s liquor license on the wall, next to his own.
“I always think what my grandmother would be saying.” Rebecca died in 2014.
He’s determined to keep the family’s legacy alive. “It has a lot to do with my grandfather and grandmother.” During World War II, Raymond cooked for large groups at the frontline. “That’s how he learned to cook for large numbers of people so my great-grandmother pulled him in,” Robby said.
He also credits his parents Robert Rodriguez and Linda Chretin Rodriguez for instilling family values and a work ethic. They taught him responsibility and family loyalty.
The restaurant is still very much a family business. “I’m no chef. With my aunts and uncles and everyone getting involved, it will be successful.”
His son Robert serves as bartender, Ayden busses tables and Sammy, well, he just eats the food for now.
Robby’s sister Rebecca Rodriguez and cousin Brittney Martinez (Bridget’s daughter, of Bridget’s Gift) co-manage Chretin’s, which he believes is the oldest family-run restaurant in Yuma.
“They have been phenomenal. I could not do it without them. Brittney has lots of experience in the restaurant business.”
His dad helps manage the bar, which gives longtime customers flashbacks since he also served as bartender in years past.
Robby has received a lot of support from his grandfather’s siblings and Joe Chretin’s children.
The “great” staff has also been supportive, taking pride in what they do. Some longtime employees are still there. Server Rosa Soergel has worked at Chretin’s for 45 years and hostess Dolores Pino for 51 years.
“I’ve seen a lot of changes. I like this change. When I started with the Chretins, I worked with his grandpa,” Pino said.
Family and staff agree that it’s all about the food. Robby wants to give locals a taste of the past, like an old song that everyone remembers.
The family is working on a new menu. They’re bringing back the famous nachos (the size of plates) and the popular toasted cheese (“It used to be huge”).
Then Robby will be making some changes, mostly to the interior of the restaurant. He will paint it, buy new tables and chairs, install new floors and put up more family photos.
He hopes to expand the bar and dining room, “but not today.” Underhill would have to give his blessing since he still owns the building.
He’s also bringing back some of the old traditions, like the nacho-eating contests. He envisions battles between the Yuma Proving Ground and the Marine Corps Air Station and firefighters vs. police officers.
He wants to continue the restaurant’s tradition of community and military support and wants to sponsor community events.
Robby will also continue his job as a firefighter and public information officer for the Somerton/ Cocopah Fire Department. “I have a very supportive fire department. Chief Paul DeAnda just wants me to succeed.”
He hopes to retire from that field in 3-5 years, but he’s not ready. “I really love what I do as a firefighter.”
He recognizes that every restaurant has its ups and downs, good days and bad days, and he can’t make everyone happy, but he can’t help and try. He likes to visit each table and make sure everything is good. “I respect criticism. That’s how we learn.”
He would be happy if other family generations continued the tradition. But in the meantime, as long as customers come in and enjoy themselves, the Chretin family legacy will live on.
Robby Rodriguez welcomes feedback and suggestions. He can be reached at (928) 580-2259.