Start at the compact shopping and lifestyle mall Saigon Centre on the corner of Le Loi and Pasteur. Shimmy up to 1/F, skipping the dull international brands, and beeline to Valenciani / 3821 2788 / for funky work and play wear; VOV / 3914 2008 / vovietchung.com / for master dressmaker Vo Viet Chung’s off-the-rack contempo cotton ao dais and chiffon numbers. SÔNG (see Standout Stores) has boho-chic, fair trade furnishings incl. contempo takes on traddy ‘mac nua’ lacquered silk cushions and tropically-inspired resort wear for all, then scoot up to 2/F for Catherine Denoual Maison’s winnin’ linens (see Décor); or how about a spot of relief from shopper’s shoulder with lush Thai spa prods at Harnn & Thann / 3914 2649. Come back down to earth and exit the mall by Paris Deli café, cross Pasteur, and march up Ton That Thiep, calling in at Dze Studio #49 / 3821 4286 / for lovely lacquerware, ao dai, teapots and candle holders, or neighbour Duy Tan #47 / 3821 3614 / for the same same but ever so slightly different. Scarily hairy, Mary? Jasmine (see Spa) at #45 will happily de-forest your lady-garden, and is a local fave for facials and muscle-melting massages. Next at #43, Saigon Kitsch has some fab imperial print-covered notebooks and other retro propaganda paper chase, and at #33, MH Craft / 3821 4459 / mh-craft.com / continues the trad handicraft trend, with hair accessories, vases, eggshell lacquer pots and picture frames, then you’ll find a gigantic Fanny at #29-31 / 3821 1633 / fanny.com.vn / just the spot for gelato, with dishy Indochine relic Temple Club upstairs (see Rest./Smart). Across the street at #40 is blokey Just Men (see Spa) if the ol’ silverback needs a preen or pamper, otherwise shoot on to #7 for ethnic threads and bags at Sapa / 3821 8836. Now, turn right into Ho Tung Mau and breeze along for a few minutes past a heap of faff, then right again into Ngo Duc Ke, a sweet street worth visiting for bed covers with a conscience on the 1/F at #35 Mekong Creations / 2210 3110; #62 Nhân Sushi Bito (see Lunch), a wash n’ blow at #58 Bing Siam / 3821 7776 / ask for Mr. Tor / closed Mon; or a Francophilic gastro blow-out at #56 La Niçoise (see Lunch). Next!