A SPECIAL JOURNEY TO SON DOONG OF QUY COC TU AND H’HEN NIE

At the beginning of 2020, we (Miss H’hen Nie and travel blogger Ngo Tran Hai An - Quy Coc Tu) were fortunate to become members of the Son Doong team to conduct annual research at the cave.

In 1991, Ho Khanh, living in Bo Trach, Quang Binh province, accidentally discovered Son Doong on a jungle trip as he attempted to avoid the rain. Subsequently an expedition of the British Royal Caving Research Association, led by Howard Limbert, conducted research and measurements and officially confirmed this as the largest cave in the world. Son Doong has a length of over 9 km, height of over 200 m and a width of 160 m - enough to contain a 40-storey building. The Great Wall of Vietnam, located in the cave with a height of over 90 m is considered the greatest wonder of Son Doong and also the pride of the Vietnamese people. Scientists estimate that Son Doong took about 2-5 million years to reach its current massive dimensions.

August and September are the flood season and the world’s largest cave Son Doong will be flooded to hundreds of meters. Therefore, early this year a team of experts came to Son Doong to re-evaluate the situation in the cave to see if the geology, geomorphology, animals/plants or mechanic systems in the cave have been damaged/changed or not, to ensure maximum safety for visitors. The survey was attended by many experts as well as more modern and professional machines and equipment than in an ordinary tour.

On the trip earlier this year, we were accompanied by Howard Limbert - Head of the British Royal Caving Research Association, and representatives of the Management Board of

Phong Nha - Ke Bang National Park, Oxalis Adventure, rangers, foreign experts, two famous British photographers and some porters. The total team was as large as 35 people. A Son Doong discovery tour usually lasts for 6-10 days, but our journey was only 4 days 3 nights - partly because the team members (except for me and H’hen Nie) were all professionals so we would not take too long to enter the

cave, partly because we would dismiss the unimportant points and only focus on the most necessary points. Therefore, our 4-day-3night journey is equivalent to a normal 6-day-5-night journey.

DAY 1 - A SMOOTH START

The first day of the journey, we crossed the jungle to En Cave. The first stage was quite easy; we only had to climb a short slope, the rest were mostly flat roads. En Cave entrance is the second largest cave dome in the world, but a part of the main entrance had collapsed, so we went around to the back entrance and camped there. En Cave is also considered one of the most beautiful campsites in the cave system of Vietnam, because there are sunbeams illuminating the cave. Perhaps everyone who comes to En Cave wishes to see this scenery, but not everyone is fortunate enough to see it because it depends on the weather. On the riverbank in the heart of En Cave where we camped, Howard announced that we were going to have a special experience that night.

After dinner, we sailed across the river to the other side, climbed up high and waited. Howard turned on the pre-set lights up so we could see the entire cave at night and it was a very impressive view - the lights made the whole majestic cave suddenly shimmering and fanciful. The first day of my Son Doong journey ended with such a good impression.

The next morning, I got up early and climbed high to wait for the sunbeams. I had to be patient and wait a long time because when I got into position the sun was not yet visible. Then, the first sunbeam appeared. In that moment, I could only utter one word: “Perfect!”

Just a stream of light from outside plunging into the cave was enough to create an incredibly wide and overwhelming glow. H’hen Nie took so many stunning picutres in that moment alone.

After seeing the sunbeams, our team quickly packed up our stuff and continued the journey’s second day: to Ho Sut 1 inside Son Doong Cave - a typical feature of Son Doong.

DAY 2 - PRISTINE EDEN

In the past, Ho Sut was a closed cave, but the river flowed through the cave dome and caused the ceiling to collapse, forming a large hole and from there light could penetrate through the hole into the cave’s interior. The cave has only a stalactite surface, but since the sunlight has penetrated, plants begin to grow, creating magical scenery: on the surface of stalactites sparkling and rocks appear green trees.

On the second day, we waded a lot (the water was cool!) and the road was harder going than the first day, especially when we had to cross a rock wall about 90 m high underground. Together with experts, guides and support equipment, we got to the underground safely and continued our journey - crossing underground rivers and waterfalls to reach Ho Sut 1. In the afternoon, we arrived in a place that seemed very close to heaven.

NIGHTS IN SON DOONG CAVE LOOK LIKE ABSOLUTE ³NIGHT´ - NO LIGHT, NO SOUND, ONLY A SPLENDID DARKNESS. THE ONLY SOUND HERE IS THE SOUND OF A STREAM FLOWING OR THE OCCASIONAL INSECTS CHATTERING.

If you watched the latest MV of singer Alan Walker, or international talk shows about Son Doong, you have surely seen the image of a high-rise rock tower with a person standing on it - this can be considered the “symbol” of Son Doong cave. Before coming to this rock tower, we passed through the Garden of Eden. Here there are stalactites from millions of years ago, layered and covered with rocks and green trees, and on the highest peak are white domes illuminated by converging and reflecting sunlight. The area shone brightly, creating a scene like stairs leading to heaven. H’hen Nie also took a lot of photos with ao dai here.

That evening, after the team moved to the camp to sleep, my own second day trip was not yet ended. Near the campsite there is a system of fossils of ancient animals. This area was once flooded so there are many fish, snails, shells and fossils carved into the wall. I could clearly see every bone, flake, or shell as a trace of time trapped in the cliffs. And it was not until night fell that I realized how pure and pristine nature truly is. Nights in Son Doong cave look like absolute “night” - no light, no sound, only a splendid darkness. The only sound here is the sound of a stream flowing or the occasional insects chattering. For me, this “experience” was really incalculable.

DAY 3 - GOING THROUGH THE MAGICAL ARTIFACTS

The next day, we once again got up early to go to Ho Sut 2. It was also a very hard climbing day but we spent a lot of time taking pictures, because there were so many beautiful places on the third day. Howard led us through many famous places such as

Hands of Dog (two columns of stalactites up to 70 m high), cave domes and underground rivers. I observed the stalactites and could not help but marvel at the magnificence of Son Doong. In particular, there are caves where stalactites are mixed with sand - they are called the fossilized waterfalls. The small sand grains in the stalactite glittered like crystals. H’hen Nie and I just went from one surprise to another because the nature here was really amazing beyond imagination.

In the afternoon, our team reached Ho Sut 2. In my opinion, I found Ho Sut 1 more splendid and impressive in every small detail, but in terms of grandeur and majesty, Ho Sut 2 is more impressive.

That night, the whole team had to go to bed early to prepare for the next day - the last day of the journey. Knowing that H’hen

Nie and I did not have too much experience, Howard carefully instructed us about the journey’s fourth day: Crossing the Great Wall of Vietnam.

DAY 4 - CONQUER YOURSELF

Before reaching the Great Wall of Vietnam, we had to cross an underground river about 600 m long. This is considered one of the beautiful spots in the Son Doong cave system. This underground river contains many minerals, so when the light comes down, it creates a very special cyan color. (Many people who look at the pictures will think that these colors are photoshopped, but no, it is completely natural.) Howard led us to a special place up high, then arranged three boats in three specific locations on the river from which to put the lights on the cliffs. This preparation was extremely difficult, but luckily for me, thanks to the professionalism of the team members, I was able to take extremely satisfactory photos at this location.

IT IS HARD TO BELIEVE THAT A WHOLE ECOSYSTEM OF SON DOONG WAS ONLY CREATED AND ARRANGED BY THE HANDS OF MOTHER NATURE MILLIONS OF YEARS AGO.

After that, everyone got on the boat to move to the Great Wall of Vietnam. On a small boat drifting slowly amidst hundreds of meters of stalactite pillars, I suddenly felt the majesty and seeming infinity of nature. It’s difficult to describe the majesty, which can only be seen by the eyes and felt by the heart, through words or even pictures.

After about 45 minutes on the boat, we reach the Great Wall of Vietnam. This was the last and also the most difficult route in 4 days. The wall is about 90 m high, but thanks to the difficult terrain of the first 20 m, the National Park Management

Board, in collaboration with cave experts, placed a 20 m long iron ladder to support the climbers. The ladder is very well placed on the surface of the rock, not screwed deeply into it so as not to affect the natural environment. After passing the first 20 m, we would have to continue swinging by hand. The team experts and assistants climbed first to check and set up the rope system. About an hour later, it was our turn, and H’hen Nie and I started to climb.

I used to travel a lot, so I got through smoothly although this challenge was hard, and H’hen probably had less experience, so it was more difficult for her. H’hen was also afraid of heights, so she was quite shaken, and the surface of the wall was too steep and slippery, causing her to slip after she climbed several meters. Luckily, the guard system activated the lock immediately, so she only slid for a short distance, and the assistants pulled H’hen up with the power cord.

After H’hen Nie and I both “conquered” the Great Wall of Vietnam one after another, everyone in the team rushed to congratulate us, and we bowed to thank everyone silently - thanks to the professionalism and thoughtfulness of everyone and our own determination. The rest of the journey was a 2-hour walk through the jungle. At 4 pm, our journey exploring Son Doong ended.

EPILOGUE

There are perhaps no words that can sufficiently describe the beauty of Son Doong. It is hard to believe that a whole ecosystem of Son Doong was only created and arranged by the hands of mother nature millions of years ago. In addition to the beauty beyond imagination of Son Doong in particular and nature in general, this journey also helped me feel my energy source “beyond the imagination”. There were times when I, or even H’hen, thought that it would not be possible, and yet we, experiencing panic and tragic falls, successfully passed through.

Last but not least, I want to share with you that Son Doong has been very well preserved. Previously, I received negative information on social networks that Son

Doong cave was exploited and its ecosystem was badly affected... It wasn’t until I experienced it that I learned that Son Doong conservation is currently well done, and there does not seem to be any problem or threat to the cave ecosystem. Everyone on the team is aware of their actions, no one litters or goes into restricted areas; there are not only stalactites, but grass roots that are also cherished and preserved… So, by my experience, I hope I can convey the most accurate and objective information about Son Doong to those who are interested. For the rest, please experience the most complete answer yourself.

SON DOONG CONSERVATION IS CURRENTLY WELL DONE, AND THERE DOES NOT SEEM TO BE ANY PROBLEM OR THREAT TO THE CAVE ECOSYSTEM. EVERYONE IS AWARE OF THEIR ACTIONS AND NO ONE LITTERS OR GOES INTO RESTRICTED AREAS...