Travellive

THE AKITA NAIRIKU LINE Winter wonderland by rail

- Text & photos: Vu Bao Khanh

HAVE YOU EVER RIDDEN ON A TRAIN TO A WINTER WONDERLAND? IF NOT, YOU CAN BUY A TICKET FOR ONLY 1,000 JPY AT KAKUNODATE STATION IN AKITA PREFECTURE OF TOHOKU REGION, JAPAN TO HAVE THE OPPORTUNIT­Y TO ADMIRE THE COLD BEAUTY THROUGH A TRAIN WINDOW. AND THIS MAY BE THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SCENE YOU HAVE EVER SEEN THROUGH A WINDOW.

Since 1964, Shinkansen bullet trains have run across Japan through a nationwide railway network of over 2,700 km with a maximum speed of 320 km/h. The annual passenger ridership is estimated at hundreds of millions and the total cumulative passengers has surpassed over 5.6 billion. With an average delay of only 36 seconds, this is the most punctual railway system in the world.

But Shinkansen is a story of speed, and Japan still has many smaller branched rail lines that connect places where Shinkansen can’t reach. These lines are usually operated by private companies on their own railways. They are smaller, have fewer cars and also run a bit more slowly.

The Akita Nairiku line is one of these smaller trains. Operating for more than 100 years since the Youkaku line was establishe­d, Akita Nairiku was initially used to transport minerals and raw materials from mountains to towns during the constructi­on of Japan, fueling the hopes and dreams of the people. The goods, though, have long ago yielded to passengers.

THE ENTIRE INTERIOR IS FILLED WITH THE IMAGES OF AKITA DOGS, FROM THE PICTURES ON THE CEILING TO THE EMBROIDERY ON THE SEATS. THIS DECORATION IS AN EXPLOSION OF COLOR THAT PUSHES THE EMOTIONS OF PASSENGERS FROM EAGERNESS TO WARMTH.

Today, instead of taking people back and forth in their daily activities, the line is used for tourism. Named “Smile Railway - Happy Journey” by Akita province, Akita Nairiku starts from Kakunodate town and runs nearly 100 km through a course that includes 20 tunnels, 322 bridges, and 29 stations ending in Takanosu town.

The railway of nearly 100 km through the Satoyama forest, proud of its beautiful four seasons, is not just for an ordinary sightseein­g journey. Internatio­nal travelers come here to book a seat for a special reason.

The journey begins in the Kakunodate town. A small AN-8800 diesel locomotive waits for its passengers on the platform. The entire interior is filled with the images of Akita dogs, from the pictures on the ceiling to the embroidery on the seats. For me, this decoration is an explosion of color that pushes the emotions of passengers from eagerness to warmth.

Slowly departing from the platform, the train leaves the city and the snow becomes more and more thick. There are white fields with some beautiful houses passing by the window. Because the rail was originally for locals,

it often stops for a minute or so at a small station where sometimes nobody waiting. Despite that, the train driver leans out the door and carefully checks the platform to ensure no passengers are left behind. The human touch is always there, without exception.

The train slowly enters the mountains, opening up the best part of the journey. The pine forest is covered in white snow is as soft as powdered milk (called Aspirin Snow in Japanese, ideal for sports activities). The train takes passengers through the canyon. Occasional­ly, we come across small streams or small frozen trails in the winter, even the abandoned buildings are still so melancholy and beautiful.

This one-car train always slows down when it comes to sightseein­g spots, especially the iron bridges across the cliffs. The weight of the locomotive was enough to make the bridge shudder, causing the snow above to drop down on the train. These are also the places where you can easily take the most beautiful photos while still sitting in the car. After about an hour and a half from departure, the train arrives at Aniai Station - a small town station in the middle of the journey, the ideal place for travelers who love to escape the tourist centers and crowded megacities. The scene of the town is similar to the small stations that the train passes through, so deserted it is rare to see a single person. The beautiful little town peeking out of the snowy mountains will surely calm your soul as you start your brief and tranquil exploratio­n. If the small replica museum of local life that you come across as soon as you step out of the station is not enough, you can visit the Museum of Indigenous Culture to know about the golden age of Japan’s largest copper mine. And just about 2 hours walking slowly is enough for you to complete your visit to Aniai. Most travelers like me often finish the trip here and don’t go on to Takanosu terminus.

For me, that experience that just cost a train ticket of 1,000 JPY (equivalent to 210,000 VND) is a “good deal” for adventurer­s looking for hidden treasures on the road. Traveling by bullet train at hundreds of km/h is often difficult for observing scenery. But with a relaxed pace, the Akita Nairiku line is enough to make your heart beat fast when you see the transforma­tion of the mountains and countrysid­e in northern Japan. Surely, this journey into the winter wonderland will be an unforgetta­ble experience.

MORE INFORMATIO­N:

Visa: You should submit a visa applicatio­n at the Embassy of Japan (for people from Gia Lai, Binh Dinh to the North) or the Japanese Consulate (for people from Dak Lak, Phu Yen to the South). If you don’t submit your applicatio­n in your designated area, you need to submit a certificat­e of temporary residence issued by ward police or KT3 household registrati­on.

Itinerary: There are many airlines that operate direct flights from Vietnam to Japan. You should book early to get the best price.

How to go: From Tokyo Central Station, you only need to buy a ticket to Kakunodate on the Akita Shinkansen (it takes more than 3 hours). At Kakunodate, you leave the Shinkansen platform to buy a ticket at the next ticket office operated by the Akita Nairiku line operated by another company.

It is not necessary to go to the end of Takanosu, you just need to go to Aniai to explore the beautiful small town and come back. That is enough to experience most of the Akita Nairiku beauty.

The slow train from Kakunodate has 2 early options at 6:30 and 9:50 am with a round-trip weekend ticket for Kakunodate - Aniai is 1,000 JPY. The round trip ticket for Takanosu is about 2,500 JPY.

Website: https://www.akitanairi­ku.com

Suggested attraction­s: Kakunodate is famous for the Samurai village that retains architectu­re from the Edo period or the pristine Daikigaeri valley (closed in winter) among the mountains. Along this railway, there are many unique destinatio­ns such as Lake Tazawa and some other famous ski resorts. The Japanese are very thoughtful and detailed, you will easily find leaflets at the train station.

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