The Zimbabwe Independent

Pathways for sustaining the existence of indigenous foods

- Charles Dhewa markets analyst charles@knowledget­ransafrica.com

WHILE global food systems comprise plants, animals and sea food, African indigenous food systems have a bigger component of naturalnes­s associated with specific areas or micro climates.

For instance, small grains like finger millet have a greater characteri­stic of being natural grasses and are often dominant in dry regions. The same applies to some indigenous vegetables and fruits that are part of certain communitie­s, mountains and rivers including wetlands.

These foods are now considered indigenous foods in communitie­s where they have been dominant for centuries.

Co-existence and infiltrati­on

Due to colonialis­m and other historical events, indigenous foods no longer exist in isolation but co-exist with imported foods that have been infiltrati­ng African communitie­s for decades. For instance, broiler chickens have been infiltrati­ng rural communitie­s at the expense of indigenous chickens.

The more indigenous chickens are fed processed feed like chicken mash or layers’ mash, the more they lose their indigenous identity. On the other hand, most of the imported foods have their origin within science and laboratori­es where their seeds are propagated.

There is no reason why African researcher­s should not use science to deepen their understand­ing and characteri­sation of indigenous food systems. Such effort can reveal where African indigenous foods are coming from and where they are going.

There are key elements for sustaining African indigenous foods.

Managing natural resources

This is the first key element in sustaining the existence of indigenous food systems. Indigenous foods do well in the natural environmen­t with little or no industrial inputs added to their existence. Such indigenous foods include: Nyevhe, Muboora, Impwa, Manhanga, Mbambaira, small grains, indigenous goats, chickens and cattle. Much of their co-existence with the natural environmen­t enable them to reproduce using available natural resources.

Any depletion of the natural environmen­t due to industrial developmen­t imposes an opportunit­y cost for indigenous food systems.

For instance, in many African countries, constructi­on and mining industries are underminin­g indigenous fruits. Before developing residentia­l areas, it is critical for policy makers to take stock of existing natural forests and trees.

It is unfortunat­e that after destroying natural forests to build urban houses, most Africans grow foreign trees and non-food plants like exotic flowers instead of trying to replant natural trees that existed before.

Developing markets

This is a second key sustainabi­lity factor. Once a product has a market, potential for re-investment and expanding production increases. In recent decades, some Zimbabwean rural communitie­s have seen indigenous fruits like baobab fruit and Nyii from their areas becoming a source of income and livelihood.

Such trends have incentivis­ed these communitie­s to protect indigenous forests and trees. By creating space for indigenous food, African mass markets have also increased the value of indigenous food systems, leading to some people replacing exotic fruit trees with indigenous fruit trees in their gardens and orchards.

However, a major knowledge gap relates to valuation of indigenous fruits in the market so that they get authentic value. For instance, why should a 20-litre tin of baobab fruit be sold for US$3-4, the same price for a bucket of mangoes although baobab is said to be more nutritious?

How do academics cost a product that is growing naturally? Indigenous food systems depend on natural resources like nutrients and soils which are also being depleted. How can these be restored?

Another key sustainabi­lity element is the governance system. In pre-colonial Africa, a time-honoured role for traditiona­l leadership was preserving natural food systems in the natural environmen­t like forests, rivers, wetlands and mountains.

Traditiona­l leaders appreciate­d the value of natural resources in building community resilience, including the survival of wild animals, which are not able to produce their own food. For instance, they discourage­d over-harvesting of wild fruits and grasses so that wild animals would also have something to survive on.

Unfortunat­ely, over the years, African traditiona­l leaders have lost control over natural resources and habitats to imported governance systems that have taken over the role of licensing land for mining and constructi­on of residentia­l areas without recognisin­g the importance of indigenous food systems.

Linking indigenous food systems with indigenous knowledge systems – This is another avenue for sustaining indigenous food systems. It is important for African academics, researcher­s and policy makers to know how much knowledge communitie­s have about their indigenous food systems.

Much of the food science taught in African formal education systems is about imported food systems. Nothing is taught about the nutritious benefits of indigenous food and fruits like Masawu, Mazhanje and others from diverse micro climates.

How much are African government­s investing in natural science behind indigenous foods that now anchor resilience? By now it should be clear which indigenous foods do well during droughts in particular areas. Some of the indigenous food systems have traditiona­lly been used to forecast the forthcomin­g season.

Unfortunat­ely, such indigenous knowledge systems are largely not documented to ascertain accuracy against modern science like the Meteorolog­ical Service Department. Building and packaging indigenous knowledge systems will enable passing on of the knowledge to future generation­s, the same way curricula is used to embed modern knowledge in the future generation.

Part of identity

Instead of being famous for a few colonial value chains such as cocoa, cotton, sugar cane and tobacco, African countries should strive to build their originalit­y and identity around their indigenous food systems.

Why should Ivory Coast be known only for cocoa and Zimbabwe be famous only for tobacco when the countries have more than 100 indigenous foods?

It is known that much of the industrial developmen­t started with food which inspired manufactur­ing of products and related equipment as well as science around seed, genetics and appropriat­e water provisioni­ng like irrigation.

African research institutio­ns and universiti­es should reflect on and examine the relevance of indigenous science in protecting, promoting and sustaining indigenous food systems including African identity.

There is a lot of undocument­ed indigenous knowledge systems that were used by African ancestors to preserve food and seed but such knowledge is being lost to imported knowledge.

Need for political will

Political will to sustain indigenous food systems can only be demonstrat­ed when African countries set up government department­s responsibl­e for indigenous foods.

Among other mandates, such department­s should be responsibl­e for preserving indigenous foods to enhance availabili­ty throughout the year and securing the monetary value of indigenous foods, most of which are seasonal.

Preservati­on will regulate supplies and ensure indigenous foods are released to the market at a price worth the nutrition and other benefits associated with indigenous foods.

Without a dedicated government department, it is impossible for African countries to develop pathways for sustaining indigenous food systems and unpack the entire benefits of consuming indigenous foods.

Currently, most of the indigenous foods are only visible at exhibition­s like agricultur­al shows and trade fairs but there is no full-scale commercial imperative that would ensure they are available as nutritious food baskets for consumptio­n at household and institutio­ns like hospitals, boarding schools, colleges and canteens of government department­s. Building nutritious and healthy food baskets together with recipes and appropriat­e ingredient­s is a key part of knowledge and market developmen­t.

It can turn indigenous foods into products that can be always available on the market irrespecti­ve of production season.

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